The dimples are where the hot metal gets injected and doesnt matter for alignment. The shafts arent critical unless they are too short or too long. You will find they vary up to .05"
The dimples are where the hot metal gets injected and doesnt matter for alignment. The shafts arent critical unless they are too short or too long. You will find they vary up to .05"
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In the front cam bearing, is there supposed to be a groove the whole way around the bearing, the cam, or both?
How many oil relief holes in the back cam journal? The stock cam has two. Didn't get to check the new cam yet.
Front Cam Bearing and/or Journal, as I understand it, the groove can be in one or the other or both, just as long as it's there.
Rear Cam Journal Relief holes, either one or two, just as long as they're there and go all the way through.
Also may want to check that each of the Cam Bearings in the Block are installed such that the hole through the side of'em lines up properly with the Oil Feed Hole in the Block itself.
Bulltear I believe has Cam Bearings available with reduced Oil Hole size to limit oil delivery to the Cam Journals and improve Oil flow to the Crank Mains and Rods.
Yes front camshaft bearing needs a groove around it so the camshaft and distributor gears are always fed oil. I do believe all current sets have this groove.
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Very helpful thread!
Part of the pile of parts I got for rebuilding my 75 401 was a Cloyes double roller set. (from MadDog). I had paid for the upgraded option on their 270 Cam kit, and although he said on the phone the upgrade was the SA Gears, I got a cloyes kit. It's certainly not as pretty as the SA Gears, but it's a double roller, so whatever. Anyways, I saw in this thread about the oiling groove in on the cam gear (which I assume is the larger of the 2 gears in the set, regardless thats the one I'm talking about). The oiling groove is IMO sloppy, exactly in the middle there's a little ridge. Is this the flashing which needs to be removed? The groove is plenty wide front and back, it's just in the middle where the obstruction is.
thanks!
1959 AMC Rambler Wagon Project
1968 AMC Jeep Gladiator J3000 327, SOA
1978 J10 401/th400/qtrack/d44 3.54 SUA Project
1990 Toyota Celica ST w/ 97 7AFE 1.8 swap
great thread and great site. i'm just finishing up a ground up build on my 79 cj5 with a 401/727t/f, i put a comp cam and a pro form dizzy, new timeing cover, new oil pump and gear's. beside the leaky head gaskets, i had 25 psi at idle cold and hot when i rev it it dos'nt seen to go up in pressure, is this correct does it need to be under load to make the pressure rise. i don't know if the gear's are gonna break or not, i have to test drive it, trying to fix the head gasket problem. post in engine section. thanks mikey
Great info in this site.
I put an HEI in an older 360 and shredded my cam gear. With all this info I don't need to ask questions, I'm getting a matched gear set and should be hitting the trails fast!
I bought a new short block and it was my daily driving for about a year at about 70 miles a day. It sat for a year and half but I started it once or twice a month while I was restoring the truck. When I finished restoring it I started driving it alot again and everything seemed fine then the cam gear stripped and the fuel pump went out at the same time. Oil pressure was fine.
Can miss matched gears last that long?
So with all that, what oil filter do U recomend for a '74 360. I don't know what's in this motor but I did fire it up a while back & it sounded like it had a little work.
Some old pic at that stage of the game.
Here is one w/just the body sitting on it cause I had to move it to my new residence. I have to use a short oil filter cause it is very close to the bracket before the m-mount. U can see the bracket in the first pic.
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