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Thread: :idea: About distributor gear wear (UPDATED!!)

  1. #91
    Thank you from BT Tech Master Bulltear Forum
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    84' CJ8-360-Project M170 Jeep
    86' CJ7-258-Mommas Jeep
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  2. #92
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    rollbar, just loked at your pics again (cause I think it's a cool green ) but I just noticed your alternator belt doesn't loop the crank pully. Any reason???
    " “It is said that men go mad in herds, and only come to their senses slowly, and one by one.." -Charles MacKay
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  3. #93
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    Just keeping it shorter. U think it would be better to run it by the crank & if so, why. If I do run it there I would need a idler pully, correct.

    P.S. I have the other bracket for the front of the PS unit.
    84' CJ8-360-Project M170 Jeep
    86' CJ7-258-Mommas Jeep
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  4. #94
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    Well, being shorter you wouldn't get the whipping motion I see in mine, but your making the water pump into a driver instead of an idler. Just hadn't seen it like that before. And if you lose the PS belt, you've also lost the water pump and the alternator, instead of just the PS - no redundancy. To replace it (trail spare?) you have to pull the PS belt off anyway, so I guess it's 50/50. Don't think it would hurt anything if you can pull off the trail and fix it before the battery died.

    An Idler would be a nice touch to keep the belt from vibrating so much That's why I'm hoping for an afordable serpentine setup With the idler holding tension, swapping them out would be pretty nice and only need to carry 1 belt as a spare
    " “It is said that men go mad in herds, and only come to their senses slowly, and one by one.." -Charles MacKay
    "'The trouble with our liberal friends is not that they're ignorant; it's just that they know so much that isn't so.' "
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  5. #95
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    Well I C your point, maybe I should change it and add a idler pully where the old bracket is just under it. I would really like to move the PS unit down into the hole so it's not 10 miles up in the air. I might get it going and then check into it but then again, it's easier to do it now B-4 the front end is on.
    84' CJ8-360-Project M170 Jeep
    86' CJ7-258-Mommas Jeep
    Project CJ8 to M170 Conversion<----Click

  6. #96
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    It would be easier to access, that's for sure. Maybe MC can make up a lower mount, I'd like to get mine outta the way of the dizzy as well. And I still think it looks cool in OD

    How the rest of the conversion coming?
    " “It is said that men go mad in herds, and only come to their senses slowly, and one by one.." -Charles MacKay
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  7. #97
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    Click on my link in my sig line. The underside of the tub is done and after I get the tranny lines in I will install the tub then paint it and rock-n-roll.

    If MC could make one it would be great and to be ABLE to have ROOM to get to the fuel pump.

    Maybe I can be a proto type :)

    I still have to buy the oil block off plate from him when I get a chance.
    84' CJ8-360-Project M170 Jeep
    86' CJ7-258-Mommas Jeep
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  8. #98
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    How can I view, cast timming cam gear, old style roll master cam gear and new style roll master with bearing cam gear. Also any other pictures that will help me with my repair.
    Thank you very much for your help.
    Wildly

  9. #99
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    Thank you

    Quote Originally Posted by jeepsr4ever View Post
    Here is a list of things that can cause distributor and cam gear wear.



    1. Oiling holes throught the large timing gear, the groove for the oiling hole must be at 2:00 from the keyway, also all passages must be clear.

    2. Cam bearing at the front of the block must have a groove in it, this sends oil through the cam at all orientation and rotation of the camshaft.

    3. The cam must have a 90 degree oiling hole setup to feed the timing gear and must be free from casting obstruction.

    4. Cam gear must be matched to the distributor gear. Their are 2 types of cam gears out there and at least 3 types of distributor gears, they CANNOT be mismatched, replacing just the cam gear will cause big problems.

    5. The timing cover: The oil pump drive gear's shaft that connects to the distributor goes through a hole in the timing cover, this is a precision hole and if tapered can cause distributor gear wear through chatter.

    6. Oil pump gears: Using longer than stock or poorly made after market gears can cause chatter, binding or premature wear of the oil pump drive gear's shaft hole. When you install a aftermarket kit that comes with new gears the idler gear pin MUST be longer. The cam and distributor gears are only rated at a certain torqueload. Some of the new gears available as of 4-22-05 are now hardened (both gears) and can withstand greater pressures

    7. Oil filter.......Yes oil filters can cause premature dizzy and cam gear wear. If you run the wrong oil (too heavy) or a filter that gets clogged early or a filter that isnt a high flow you open up your oil filter bypass and not only send dirty oil through your motor, you also exerpt a high amount of pressure on the oil pump and that alone can cause gear wear, this happens mostly on start up. In late 87 chrysler got rid of the oil filter bypass on the oil filter adaptor, after market oil filter adaptors also have this cast in. Beware that if you use a high pressure oil pump spring without a oil filter bypass you run the risk of ballooning your filter.

    8. Cam walk: Cam walk can be attributed to a cocked or poorly place cam plug (large freeze plug that hold the cam from leaving the rear of the block. Also cam walk can be caused by bad lifters, worn cam bearings, cam bearings installed improperly, or a poorly ground cam and in some cases a new cam that gets flattened on startup

    9. Cam walk can also be attributed to lack of relief holes in the back of the cam, you see pressure can increase between the end of cam and cam plug, most of these cam must be checked, we have 3 in here with no relief holes...............dang summit

    10. The retainer washer for the front of the cam that holds the distributor gear must also provide a positive seal for proper oiling. Off the shelf washers can sometimes have nicks or be convex or concave which to factory torque specs can lead to a loss of oil in front of the camshaft.

    11. The installation of the timing cover without locator pins or worn location holes will cause a mis-orientation of the thrust on the distributor gear and eventually may result in a broken or heavily worn set.

    12. Early Crown timing covers that were not checked for proper dimensional tolerance can attribute to up to 100% of the fast gear wear. Even today vendors should check for proper alingment.


    I have seen a AMC V8 go 210,000mls without any cam walk and very little gear wear. I have also seen a AMC V8 go 2 miles and eat the gears. The factory engineers knew all this and they put these motors together accordingly. Building a AMC V8 can be a expensive build and its a dirty dirty shame to have something like a cam or distributor gear go out, this can cause Major scoring on the oil pump cavity and also can cause the oil filter bypass to open and voila, roached bearings. Hope these hints help anyone out who is building a AMCV8.

    -MC
    Good info is hard to come by..

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