Warning: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is deprecated, use preg_replace_callback instead in ..../includes/class_bbcode.php on line 2958
Oil pan gasket for 304-recommendations?
Bulltear Ad
Results 1 to 6 of 6

Thread: Oil pan gasket for 304-recommendations?

  1. #1

    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    S.E. MI
    Posts
    36

    Oil pan gasket for 304-recommendations?

    I need to drop the oil pan on my 304 in my CJ to knock a broken dipstick tube out from underneath. Is there any particular brand of oil pan gasket that I should use or avoid when I put it back together? Also, does anyone know where I can get the little tab that bolts onto the valve cover (Bulltear product maybe?) and holds the tube in place? This was missing and the tube was broken when I bought the engine. I guess it wouldn't be too hard to make the support myself if I had to.
    Thanks.

  2. #2
    Thank you from BT Tech Master Bulltear Forum
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Location
    In a Half Dark world now a days
    Posts
    1,437
    I just made the tab myself does not take much

    oil pan gasket I use any brand the big thing is how tight you make it when it starts to squeze out it is tight enough

    best ever 11.669 @ 112.33 mph in 1/4 mile on 33 x 10.50 slicks and 4" lift / 7.358 @ 93.03 mph in the 1/8 mile

  3. #3
    Thank you from BT ULTIMUS MAXIMUS STATUS tufcj's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Watkins, CO
    Posts
    2,864
    I've always had good success with Fel-Pro gaskets. The only way to get the pan gasket on right is to glue it to the block. I use a few small dabs of Permatex weatherstrip adhesive. Let it get tacky, then stick it to the block. Clean all surfaces well, and use a dab of silicone (I like Permatex ultra grey) only where the side gaskets contact the end pieces, NOWHERE else. Like stated above, only tighten until the gasket starts to bulge on the outside. If you tighten them too much, you warp the sealing surface on the pan, and it will leak.

    For the dipstick, insert the tube with the stick inside, and pull/push the stick before tightening the pan. the dipstick goes thru a small hole in the baffle and a slight mis-alignment of the tube could cause the stick not to go in. Better to test fit before tightening the pan, while you can take it loose and adjust.

    Good luck.

    Bob.
    tufcj
    1969 AMX
    1967 Rambler Rogue

    If you need a tool and don't buy it...
    you'll eventually pay for it...
    and not have it.
    Henry Ford

  4. #4

    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    S.E. MI
    Posts
    36
    Thanks for the tips. I did know about needing to check that the dipstick went into the pan before bolting everything up, I made that mistake on the last CJ I did this too about 6 years ago.

    I guess I will make my own dipstick support tab, I was just getting lazy. How far apart are the mounting hole and the dipstick tube hole? Does it mount on the second valve cover bolt from the rear? It's been a long time since I've seen one.

  5. #5
    Thank you from BT ULTIMUS MAXIMUS STATUS tufcj's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Watkins, CO
    Posts
    2,864
    Email me with your mailing address, and I'll send you a factory one. I'm sure I have a spare in a drawer somewhere.

    Bob.
    tufcj
    1969 AMX
    1967 Rambler Rogue

    If you need a tool and don't buy it...
    you'll eventually pay for it...
    and not have it.
    Henry Ford

  6. #6

    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    S.E. MI
    Posts
    36
    Thanks,
    I sent you a PM with info. I had this CJ7 out to Aurora a few years back, when it was the beginning of a rust bucket with the 258 in it. If I could find a job out that way I'd be moving to Colorado in a minute.
    Jeff.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Bulltear Ad