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Scout D-44's to CJ7 - Page 2
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Thread: Scout D-44's to CJ7

  1. #11
    Thank you from BT ULTIMUS MAXIMUS STATUS tufcj's Avatar
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    This is mine on a Chevy 44HD (1/2" wall tubes), already SOA, so no grinding required. Mine is cut to 56", with no outboarding of the springs. High steer is the only way to go, I couldn't get anything else to work without clearance issues. It's got Jeep outer knuckles, 74-75 Wagoneer spindles with Ford rotors (5 on 5.5" lug pattern). It still runs Chevy backing plates and calipers. The short side axle shaft is factory Wagoneer, the long side is custom cut. The high steer arms are from Tri-County Gear.

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  2. #12
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    Some good info popping up here! Thanks for all the replies! Wheeling piazza said you have to outboard the springs on a CJ5, I am assuming the same is true for a CJ7 because the frame dimensions are the same, correct? If I feel adventurous (spelling) I might cut the knuckles and rotate, but If I can get away with not doing it, I will just leave it alone. I am going to run the stock outers for awhile, until I can find the time and the coin to do it all up right. I'm gonna concentrate on bearings, seals and gears first, then worry about the outers. hell, I'll porbably never blow them as it is, but I'm the kind of person who likes insurance...

    Who makes the best outboard spring kit, or did you build it yourself?
    79 (mostly) CJ 7 304, T-18, D300 D44s, Spring over lift on 35s

  3. #13
    Thank you from BT ULTRA TECH MASTER!!! pyagid's Avatar
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    it is not that hard of a think to put together yourself. But Blue Torch Fab makes one and so do Poison Spyder

    I have been thinking about using the BTF Kit I like the integrated front bumper, and the smaller mount for the shackle side. Although the PSC rear mount does allow for adjustability

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  4. #14
    I am pretty sure on a CJ-7 you have to outboard your springs as well..

    No need for a kit they are way to expensive and you end up with bad departure and approch angles. Plan on doing a shackle reversal at the same time.

    1/4 4x4 angle, some plate to make a triangle on hte frame and some CJ-7 rear spring hangers. Easy..

    Either way you do it, cut the front end down, grind in your spring perch location What ever, each way you are good togo.

    Steve

  5. #15
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    Wow, talk about sticker shock! I just priced some of the kits for outboarding. the thing is, I am only concerned about doing it to the front, the rear of these frames is a lot wider, so it's not necessary on the rear. I think I am going to wind up fabbing my own brackets, although it would be cool to use some of PSC's gussests that have the maltese cross lasered into them
    79 (mostly) CJ 7 304, T-18, D300 D44s, Spring over lift on 35s

  6. #16
    Yep, I figured you would find that out..

    You could still do the gussets just incoporate them in your metal is all..

    and you are correct no need todo the rear because the spring perches on the axle can be moved. When you prep the axles to be installed Take every thing off, Spring mounts and shock mounts. you will be doing new ones anyways.

  7. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by 79cj7duner
    Wow, talk about sticker shock!
    ... I think I am going to wind up fabbing my own brackets, although it would be cool to use some of PSC's gussests that have the maltese cross lasered into them
    You can buy the gussets seperatly if you REALLY want them.

    Just do it!! I took a MORE shackle revers and cut down the mounts. Had some issues with spacing since I had already welded on 3/8" frame plates so my dimentions were different than "normal" (define "normal" for me?)

    To make the offset right, I also incorporated my winch mount into the shackle mount - 3x5x1/4 Angle iron risers thru bolted. I'll bolt the 1/4 winch plate onto the riser with 1/2" grade 8's


    Mudrat
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  8. #18
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    I did a spring over with scout axles also. I ground down the top of the pumkin for the springs. I also turned the pumkin up due to the amount of lift I am running. Since I was changing the pinion angle, I had to knock off the knuckels to add caster. Here is a pick of my outboarded spring mount:



    I used 4" rubicon express extreme duty leaf springs. I still need to put on high steer and refab my shock and swaybar mounts. As for the rear axle, all you have to do is knock of the spring mounts and remount them closer to the pumkin.

    Let me know if you need any info.....

  9. #19
    Mudrat, you dont find you hang on those spring hangers at all?

    Mine are nice and tucked up there..

  10. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by WheelingPiazza
    Mudrat, you dont find you hang on those spring hangers at all?

    Mine are nice and tucked up there..
    Well they're shaped a little bit different now but I still wanted some meat to cover the spring eyes. And, I haven't had them out yet. I'm on the home stretch of a 5 year total rebuild.
    But - 'hang' in mud??? BWwwhahahahahahaha, never been hung-up in mud Stuck - oh heck yeah Rock maybe though, and I am a bit concerned about that.
    The problems I had were using the stuff I had in the shop and on the Jeep after the MORE spring reverse and adding the 3/8 frame plates on each side
    I'll see how they work. If not good - I have a torch and know how to use it

    Mudrat
    " “It is said that men go mad in herds, and only come to their senses slowly, and one by one.." -Charles MacKay
    "'The trouble with our liberal friends is not that they're ignorant; it's just that they know so much that isn't so.' "
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