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Tips and Tricks
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Thread: Tips and Tricks

  1. #1
    Thank you from BT ULTRA TECH MASTER!!! pyagid's Avatar
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    Tips and Tricks

    This is coming from

    Quote Originally Posted by Goose
    Oh no a paint and body section..Man blowing up engines is fun but spraying hundred dollar bills out of a paintgun.. thats sadism at its finest.

    Do we have any sharp body/paint folks here??
    My body work tools usually consist of a 5lb sledge, flat stock, sometimes a winch, and trees or rocks.

    So i Figured i would make a post finding out peoples tips and trick to Dent removal, Rust repair, Paint prep.

    For my 4runner I just purchased to new fenders, they come in black primer, what would the best way to prep these be before I put them on my vehicle? What will keep them from rusting out, some people of suggested undercoating the back side, but i have also heard that if done in a humid climate, undercoating could trap moisture and just make everything worse

    So lets here what people have to offer in this section

    -Paul
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  2. #2

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    that black primer ....

    I think that black primer is actually etch primer , as primer is like a sponge and absorbs moisture, etch primer normally has an incredible bond to steel and won't absorb water .

    I think preparation of your fenders all depends on what paint system you choose ( Urethane ,enamel . acrylic, etc ) , as they are different.

  3. #3
    Thank you from BT ULTRA TECH MASTER!!!
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    I have been thinking about the rhino lining for undercoating..??

    Also the por 15 stuff seems to be geared stricly towards the rust removal/prevention side of things..www.por15.com
    "A man's got to know his limitation's"

    Dirty Harry.

  4. #4
    Thank you from BT ULTIMUS MAXIMUS STATUS
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    The black coating on OMIX ADA parts doesn't last all that long - maybe 2 years. What my local body shops guys do is scrub the crap out of it with somekind of soap, rinse, dry, rinse while scrubbing, dry, phosphate prep, rinse, and then prime, base coat, top coat (or 2) then clear coat. On the inside of my panels on the CJ, I brushed out what rust I could and then soaked the carp outta them with PR-15 phosphate (Metal Ready), rinsed twice - dried then used the rust inhibitor primer before the POR-15 top coat.
    If you use the POR-15 not all of it is UV stable That was the warning on the can I used to paint my axles

    For the under-body, I kinda cheated - after finishing all the rebuild/replace, I sand blasted, did the Metal Ready treatment and then sprayed on the rust inhibitor primer



    The I did the undercoat before it went to the paint shop
    " “It is said that men go mad in herds, and only come to their senses slowly, and one by one.." -Charles MacKay
    "'The trouble with our liberal friends is not that they're ignorant; it's just that they know so much that isn't so.' "
    -Ronald Reagan

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