Hydraulic assist steering

[thigh19]

I'm running 35" Toyo MT's on my 63 cj5. Blew the steering box, running on a borrower one, and probably borroyed time. Since I have to re-do everything anyway, am I justified in using hydraulic assist? This thing sucks, steering wise that is, on the trail.

[tufcj]

I run an AGR superbox I and pump on my CJ with 37" tires. With the stock box/pump, sometimes I had to use both hands to drag the steering around. With the AGR, I can palm the wheel most of the time, even with the front locker (Detroit) engaged. If you get a good quality box, I don't see that the ram is needed. If you do install the ram assist, you need to upgrade the entire front tie rod/drag link assembly, the hydraulics will bend stock stuff like a pretzel.

Bob
tufcj

[thigh19]

Then let me ask another question. The box that's presently on it is 2.25 to one ratio. Will a 3.5 or 4:1 help matters? ARG box and pump is close to $600 is why I ask.

[tufcj]

Are you talking turns lock-lock? My AGR box has a fixed ratio of around 16:1, and about 4 turns of the wheel lock-lock. The varaible ratio boxes go from 12:1 to 16:1.

I would think that any box that has more turns lock-lock will give you more leverage to turn.

How do you plan to do a hydraulic assist? Most that I've seen require drilling and tapping the PS box to tap into the existing pump pressure. That would require disassembling the PS box anyway, because there's no way you could drill without metal contaminating everything. A PS box isn't something you can rebuild in a home workshop. I've had the rotary valve in a box jam just because a hose started to break down and left rubber particles in the fluid.

When I researched it, spending the money for the AGR box was probably the most cost effective way for me. Shop around. Most 4x4 catalogs sell AGR (and there are other similar companies now), and I found the price varied by over $125 between vendors. That nearly pays for the pump.

Bob
tufcj

[pyagid]

this is an option. For $500 they take your steering box rebuild it and set it up
http://westtexasoffroad.homestead.com/

West Texas Off Road starts with your existing steering box. The box is disassembled cleaned, rebuilt, modified and hydraulic fittings added. In addition the Stage II kit includes the mounting hardware kit and rod ends.

[thigh19]

I've just picked up a rebuilt box from a friend that's been drilled and tapped. It's 4 turns, lock-to-lock, for $125. I'll block off the ports if I don't go with hydro assist. I found an article on Pirates on how to boost pressure on the pump. http://westtexasoffroad.homestead.com/powersteering Won't these mods help?

[eight]

I boosted the pressure on my pump and it helped alot. There are a few things you can do to raise it, all I did was remove a washer. I don't remember the details because that was about 3 years ago. It's good enough that I can turn decently with a welded front diff and 36s.

I've never seen an AGR box that didn't leak, my driveway's still got a big spot from a roommate that had one 2 years ago. I only have 2 friends that run AGR boxes and pumps, one's had the box go out, and both have had the pumps go out at least twice.

Most of the Redneck Rams I've seen lately are leaking. I think he uses cheap materials to make them. He uses DOM for the body which isn't really right but I haven't heard of problems because of it. The leaks must be from cheap seals or the rods aren't polished/chromed good enough. He has great warranty service though. PSC (steering company, not related to the spyder one) seems to have better cylinders. But if your box is allready tapped, you'd probably be best off to buy a cylinder off Ebay and some hoses from an auto parts store and just use that. I got a high end $380 Parker 1.5 x 8 tie rod cylinder off Ebay for $45. It's easy to shorten the stroke with a tie rod cylinder, and rebuilding them is as easy as rebuilding a brake cylinder

[thigh19]

Something like this one I found on eBay? HyForce 1.5" x 8" Welded Hydraulic Cylinder Item number: 7548765203 How much throw do you need?

[jeepsr4ever]

I believe its 8 inches

[eight]

Amount of throw needed depends on the axle and steering setup. You want the cylinder to run out of throw just as the steering stops hit. The only way to get this just right is to measure it then get a cylinder custom made, or get a tie rod cylinder and drop some washers inside to shorten the stroke. You usually need about 8". Most people just throw a 8 x 1.5 welded cylinder on.

If you're watching Ebay, try to get a tie rod cylinder. They go for about the same price as welded ones on there, but are much higher quality. Welded cylinders are made cheap and meant to be thrown away when they go bad.