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Thread: swapping in a 360

  1. #31
    Thank you from BT Master Mechanic
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    Sounds like it's comeing along. i've had a merry-go-round of a ride with my 401 swap. almost everything needed replaced, cant believe it ran as good as it did after the rebuild, but between swapping out the distributor, replaceing the ps pump and fabbing a new bracket, makeing a newer style alternator work with my 7/16 bolt pattern, rebuilding my York compressor, extracting a few broken bolts (except for one that had to be drilled and tapped), locateing a carb, motor mounts, brackets, pulleys, waiting on parts, and looking for lost tools.....its comeing along. Now to deal with my cracked exh manifold problem and i'll be able to route fuel lines and hook up the electrical. Bright side is the Edelbrock intake looks nice on top of that pig.

    Sorry to semi-hijack, glad your project is rolling along
    401cid, T18a/D300 twinsticked.
    Lifted, locked, and Swampered

    "Its flat here...real flat. And the locals smell like potatoes."

  2. #32
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    Well here's a new question ...

    headers, but single exhaust (gotta have a Cat in this state) with space limited between the t-case and rear end, what's a proven method of routing the exhaust tot he DRVR side and into a single cat/muffler?

    I'm thinking of a 90 after the T-case, over the top of the yoke and back into the main line? Want to be able to dropt the tranny/t-case without having to drop the exhaust - especially since it'll be welded...

    Thoughts??
    " “It is said that men go mad in herds, and only come to their senses slowly, and one by one.." -Charles MacKay
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  3. #33
    Thank you from BT ULTIMUS MAXIMUS STATUS tufcj's Avatar
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    It's really tough with headers. You don't want the pipe too close to the floorboard, or the heat transfer will be terrible. Take it to a shop that does street rods, they can generally be really creative, but you will pay for it.

    I went with stock exhaust manifolds (smog laws), I even had to have the air tubes. The shop turned the passenger side forward (about a 135* bend), then ran it under the front of the oil pan, then turned it back and connected it into the driver side. Pipes are 2.25" until they meet, then go into 3". 3" high flow cat mounted over the skid plate, 3" welded Magnaflow muffler. The whole exhaust system is above the lower edge of the fram rail, except the very end, which dumps at the driver rear corner. Mine cost about $700 to build (including cat and muffler), but I've never caught it on anything, even in the most extreme rock crawling.

    I had headers in mine previously, and I don't see any noticable loss of power (maybe even a slight gain in torque) in the RPM range I run in for crawling (idle-3500 RPM). The stock manifolds seal better, and won't ever burn thru or rust out. With the cam I have, it runs out of power over 4500 anyway. How often does it get revved that high? Very seldom.

    Bob
    tufcj
    1969 AMX
    1967 Rambler Rogue

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  4. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by tufcj
    I went with stock exhaust manifolds (smog laws), I even had to have the air tubes. The shop turned the passenger side forward (about a 135* bend), then ran it under the front of the oil pan, then turned it back and connected it into the driver side. Pipes are 2.25" until they meet, then go into 3". 3" high flow cat mounted over the skid plate, 3" welded Magnaflow muffler. The whole exhaust system is above the lower edge of the fram rail, except the very end, which dumps at the driver rear corner.
    Bob
    tufcj
    I think you mentioned something out this before - interesting ... around in front of the pan???

    Got pics?

    Not sure I can do anything like that. The other option I was looking at was taking off the PASS header and going left w/ a 90* - between the bell and trans - then a 45* to merg in to the DRVR side just past the proportioning valve and into the cat/muffler and back.
    " “It is said that men go mad in herds, and only come to their senses slowly, and one by one.." -Charles MacKay
    "'The trouble with our liberal friends is not that they're ignorant; it's just that they know so much that isn't so.' "
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  5. #35
    Thank you from BT ULTRA TECH MASTER!!! pyagid's Avatar
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    I will try to get some pictures this weekend, My dads CJ he was able to find a small Cat the fit up right by the transmission crossmember. His CJ has since became a "1980" Jeep so it doesnt need to go through inspection or emmisions anymore.

    I will get pictures of his exhaust with the headers adn Cats this weekend though

    -Paul
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  6. #36
    theres a guy who wants the chero i used for parts, i'm fine with giving it to him but is there anything i should grab off that i may need towards the 360 swap?

  7. #37
    Thank you from BT Tech Master Bulltear Forum
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    ?
    I got a set of J-10 exhaust manifolds off a 78' 360 for my 77' 360 (different engine) I have in my CJ8 I'm trying to finish, my question is will the J-10 stock exhaust manifolds work in the CJ or will they hit the tub.

    Thanks,
    RollBar
    84' CJ8-360-Project M170 Jeep
    86' CJ7-258-Mommas Jeep
    Project CJ8 to M170 Conversion<----Click

  8. #38
    Thank you from BT ULTIMUS MAXIMUS STATUS tufcj's Avatar
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    Just about all of the AMC V-8 exhaust manifolds (car, truck, SUV) are the same from 1971 until the late 80s. The only ones that were different were the Hornet, Gremlin, and such that had clearance issues. What you have should fit fine.

    Bob
    tufcj
    1969 AMX
    1967 Rambler Rogue

    If you need a tool and don't buy it...
    you'll eventually pay for it...
    and not have it.
    Henry Ford

  9. #39
    Thank you from BT Tech Master Bulltear Forum
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    As alway's, thanks Bob . I wasa told different so I had to check w/the real AMCers.

    RollBar
    84' CJ8-360-Project M170 Jeep
    86' CJ7-258-Mommas Jeep
    Project CJ8 to M170 Conversion<----Click

  10. #40

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mudrat
    Well here's a new question ...

    headers, but single exhaust (gotta have a Cat in this state) with space limited between the t-case and rear end, what's a proven method of routing the exhaust tot he DRVR side and into a single cat/muffler?

    I'm thinking of a 90 after the T-case, over the top of the yoke and back into the main line? Want to be able to dropt the tranny/t-case without having to drop the exhaust - especially since it'll be welded...

    Thoughts??
    You can't run dual cats? I know it is more money but I would consider the Dual cats so youo can run dual exhaust.
    `81 CJ5,304,T-176.

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