AMC 360 INTAKE MANIFOLD GASKET PROBLEM

[Rhinolined360]

• Today I wanted to put a wrench threw my windshield, I'm trying to put my edelbrock performer intake manifold back on my 360 V8 and the front and rear gasket not to mention the pain in the butt huge metal gasket keep sliding around. Do i need that huge gasket? Ill i could find about it is that it was made to stop the oil from splashing, and keeps the motor cooler. The end gaskets slide out as well when i torque the intake down to the recommended 45ft/lbs. What would you recommend using? or What remedy did you use to make it easy.

[donwag]

Toss the front and rear rubber gaskets and use RTV. Use the tin valley pan gasket. The valley pan gasket sides will fit nicely just under the ridges on the head. May have to bend it a little to form it up better.

[zero cool]

You need to "pre bend" the metal gasket. The four "dowels" should sit nicely inside the holes at the four corners and hold it in place while you set the manifold.

[BREK]

I agree, throw out the end seals and use silicone, and as stated you have to prebend the tin valleypan gasket. Also are you running any kind of valley oil line as that may be interfearing with your install.

[Rhinolined360]

should i use rtv on the metal gasket or no

[Mudrat]

should i use rtv on the metal gasket or no

Welcome Rhinolined360 glad your here. This is the most tech savvy place for AMC engines. Some build for speed and some for crawling so watch out what you ask for

Next, please reduce the size of your avatar. It's a nice ride but 80x80 pixals max is requested on the size.

Other than that we have some real gear heads here and some have decades of real experiance.

'Rat

[tufcj]

I generally use copper spray-a-gasket around the intake ports (sprayed onto both sides of the steel gasket). I use black or gray permatex around the water ports (again both sides). I always install the rubber end gaskets dry, with just a dab of permatex at the ends, never had one squish out. Clean all surfaces with brake cleaner first.

Pre-bend it so it stays placed in the 4 outermost holes, make every effort to drop the manifold on with a minimum of sliding around.

Bob
tufcj

[AMX69PHATTY]

You may want to consider blocking off the Intake heat crossover passages.
I siliconed a piece of galvanized dryer duct cut to fit over the valley pan holes.
This will help keep that Aluminum Intake cooler and prevent boiling the carb.
If the end seals are squishing out you may want to check the Intake fit.
depending on what parts you have and what's been machined where,
the Intake may be sitting to low in between the heads.
If it was a used intake it may have already been machined narrower.
When fitting an intake both the head and block surfaces get machined each by different amounts.
Also have you removed the sheet metal Oil Baffle from yur old cast iron Intake
and installed it onto the bottom of the aluminum Performer Intake ?
This helps prevent sucking oil through the PCV and into the bottom of the carb.

[Goose]

I would use the rtv on all the ports and clean use the rubber on the ends with RTV but prebending the sheet metal is essential.. Although I have put together a few without the tin using the MR Gasket intake Gaskets.. some have said they get oil usage this way but I havent had a problem.. yet..

[grignac48]

I just got done this weekend installing my edelbrock intake for the 4th time. I had everything go wrong that could. The first time I twisted a bolt off, then I forgot an end gasket.

I finally placed the metal in and bent it to fit nicely in the valley and the guides into the bolt holes. After four installs I had to shape it more or bend it back into correct shape. Finally I used a small bead of rtv around all of the coolant ports and the ends. Then torqued it down. =D>