Dude I picked up a Hornet

[jeepsr4ever]

Well it will be interesting and I am sure if it doesnt work I may hear a couple of "I told you so's" around the shop

[KEV]

1972 hornet BRIGHT dukes of hazzard orange. It is a 6cyl auto car but I will be giving her the treatment. I have a 9", decent cammed 360, 904 auto and some 10 wide rims for the rear all I am missing are some tires and time to get it together but the plan is to make a mild 12.50-13 second car and get a female driver I will take some pics

=D>

[Goose]

MC.. are you luring in unsuspecting women with free beer , 'wanna drive my race car and other underhanded tricks?



(Well hell if it works why change it?? )

[jeepsr4ever]

MC.. are you luring in unsuspecting women with free beer , 'wanna drive my race car and other underhanded tricks?



(Well hell if it works why change it?? )

Ahaaa Yes my friend! Well two fo the racers who said they would have now declined

[Holeshot]

800CFM is not enough!!! 850 should be min & even AMC suggested a 950CFM 3-bbl Holley & sold it together with the R4B under one part number for the set. I came across a nice 1050CFM 3-bbl for my R4b & scooped it up.

Why blow thru turbo?? The reported boost limit on a blow thru Holley is around 15psi (due to leakage), you can go 30 to 100 with draw thru!!! Also, with blow thru, if your throttle spring breaks (or otherwise sticks open), you will have the first AMC in orbit!! Other than that, the blow-thru method just seems to be bass-ackwards, like trying to get a horse buggy goin by pushing the rope. When pressurizing the carb inlet, you also are pressurizing all of the air bleeds, emulsion tubes, etc.

I have been looking at various ways to throttle body a draw thru system using an UltraRam bottom (IR) & think that using Holley base plates with all the ports plugged may work. Most of the aftermarket throttle bodies are at least $500 each & I need two for my 2x turbo/UltraRam plan. Should be good for around 1,200HP without revving past 6500. The knowledgeable AMC turbo builders STRONGLY advise to NOT use the 390/401 blocks due to thin cyl walls & the distortion that will occur. A 360 with minimal overbore (and O-ringed) was stated as OK. You should use the 390/401 crank & rods (or aftermarket forged units), of course. Which means you need a 4.020" piston with th 401 pin bore, not all that expensive for the custom JE thick-dome turbo pistons. And, of course, gapless rings. May as well add the extra head bolt per cylinder while we are at it. And go for grooved crank or bearings. And solid lifters with restricted oil feed so the bearings get high pressure. I plan to run the turbo's oil return lines thru separate oil coolers because that oil can get scorching hot. And if I cut the firewall & set the engine back about a foot I can add about 3 more quarts of capacity, get the pan off easily, and maybe drag the rear bumper a bit.

[73hatch]

Holeshot: Log in to this site-http://www.turbomustangs.com/smf/index.php?board=13.0
...and say blowthrough dont work over 15psi and drawthrough is the way to go...... You`ll probably feel like a BBQ chicken after the flaming ends :)