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Too Hot of CAM? - Page 2
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Thread: Too Hot of CAM?

  1. #11
    Roller cams don't really provide much advantage until you start getting into much larger duration and lift profiles. Up to about 270 duration, a flat tappet can still accelerate a valve of the seat faster. With todays oils, not much of a friction reduction advantage with rollers either.

    Spend your money on roller rockers.

    Here's another cam to consider for your application: Engle 35018H.

    Your lifters would work with any hydraulic flat tappet cam.
    Bare Tub Restoring 69 BBB Javelin SST 390 Go/Mod Pak
    Frame Off Restoring 82 Wagoneer with 401 MPEFI transplant
    "First rule of government funding; Why build one when you can build two at twice the price!"

  2. #12
    Helpfull BT forum member Junior wrench of the Forum
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
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    Fort Wayne, Indiana
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    99
    Quote Originally Posted by zero cool
    A friend of mine has the Summit 8601/Edelbrock 2131/600 CFM carb in his Wagoneer. He's running stock exhaust. The engine runs great from idle all the way to redline.
    I am sure that your friends 360 with the Summit 8601 cam does run fine.

    What I had suspected when I bought my 8601, that it was too hot for a Tow Rig.
    I was then reassured the recurving of my distributor would compensate for the more radical profile.
    I learned here than my initial gut feelings were correct, that this cam is not well suited for a tow rig.

    My 7600# rated J20 will be used to tow a tandem axle trailer across country to haul home those projects that are cherry and/or free/cheap.
    I need a cam in my J20 that will pull a heavy trailer up a mountain pass while passing the ricers over in the slow lane with the big rigs! HAHAHAHAHA
    (I am being silly, I need a diesel tow rig to work this hard)
    A Summit 8601 cam will not perform in this type of service.
    Bryan Smith
    Fort Wayne, Indiana
    2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited
    - 5.7 HEMI powered
    1982 Jeep J10
    - Progress toward road-worthiness is being made!
    1981 Jeep J20
    - Commercial flat bed - Long term Project: RUST! Long term project (RUST!)

  3. #13
    Thank you from BT ULTRA TECH MASTER!!!
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    naahh, you don't need a diesel, that 360 built with moderation in mind will do the job just fine.. I have a J-10 with a 360 T-176 4 spd and 3:73 rears on 33" tires the 360 is basically a stock bottom end with the torker manifold edelbrock carb headers and the cam is an old schneider grind that I will try to find the specs on.. this truck empty will get 18-19 mpg at 65 mph on the highway and will climb I-70 all the way from Denver to the Eisenhower tunnel at 65 in top gear..and If you dont mind listening to it howl along at 5500 rpm it will drag the CJ-5 and my "stuff" up there in third all day long. If you have never seen I-70 west out of Denver.. it goes from 5000' to 10,000 at the tunnel in something like 21 miles..with 8% grades in places..

    ok now that I have bragged on it it will blow up..
    "A man's got to know his limitation's"

    Dirty Harry.

  4. #14
    Thank you from BT Master (OIIIO)
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    Missoula MT, Now in Santa Rosa Ca
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    have run the 8601 which is the profile you listed in a couple of stock compression 401's and had no problems towing actually towed really well, woke the motor up more so than most of the so called rv and towing cams out there. i also ran a 270H comp cam in my 360 powered rig with a 670 and that towed really well too, and in a 9.2:1 360 with a performer and the PAW version of that cam i had it in a 74 waggy with t-18 and liked it plently of snort in the 1500-5500rpm range, a little soft off from 1000-2000 but i was never in the 4 barrels at those rpms anyways so the gearing in the truck took care of the soft starts, soft start was just a slight tap of throttle as i was letting clutch out vs some of the other options where i could just let the clutch out and didnt really have to worry about keeping throttle up. I liked being able to down shift on a grade and pull 4000 rpm+ and still having power with a load and then being able to shift back into direct and keep chugging down the highway. most of my rigs have always cruised the highway with a trailer at 2500-3000 rpm at 65-70 mph+ and since that is my cruising rpm i have always liked the rpm buffer of still having 2k ov er that and still having power 1000 rpm under that.

    That said i cannot help you with a rockers and bridges motor, all of my 360's, 390's and 401's that i have built if they are rockers and bridges i havent gone over 480 lift but with the stud motors all of my amcs that i have towed with and built have loved bigger cams for towing ect. 401's and 360s alike always get undercammd. also dont forget that nis a 114 lope sep cam its alot more behaved than you might think.
    IF washington wont quit spending money like mad men then i suggest we claim 9 deductions in 2010 and withold or taxes till the final dead line of 4/15/2011.

    CJ7 AMC401 http://www.fordification.com/images/forum/bug.gif

    "May God have mercy on my enemies, because I WON'T!!" -General George Patton
    Member #377

  5. #15
    Helpfull BT forum member Junior wrench of the Forum
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    Fort Wayne, Indiana
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    Goose, I whole hearty agree!
    Not wanting turn this into a FSJ bragging post, but I would also like to share about how great of a J20 that I own.

    Last fall, I towed an empty tandem axle full till bed trailer to from Fort Wayne, to 50 miles north of Pittsburgh, PA.
    This trailer empty weighs close to 3000#

    I then loaded up a 1980 Chevy Hefty Half Diesel pickup hauled it to 25 miles SW of Charleston, WV.
    My brother's project was somewhat stripped down, but still weighed ~3000#.
    I am guessing the towed weight to be between 5500 and 6500#
    With the trailer and all that weight, the ride height of my J20 did not change, the rear end did not squat.
    I love the stiff rear leaf springs

    The entire trip was right down I-79.
    Much of I-79 is up and down hills, some long and steep.

    Between Pittsburgh and Washington, PA, I was climbing a long steep hill and was gaining speed.
    I had my brother lean over and be a witness, as I was over the 65mph limit.
    I backed out to maintain the speed limit, as I wanted to take it nice and easy.

    My J20 performed excellent!
    I managed to get 10mpg towing up and down all those hills.

    One thing I was happy about, was I did not have an OD tranny.
    My TF727 is awesome for towing!
    On lots of hills, my 360 lugged down some, but the 727 never shifted from third and I was always able to maintain the speed limit.
    I love the combo of my J20's 360 V8, TF727, NP219 transfercase, Dana60 and Dana44HD with its 3:73 gears.

    The next morning, I was took some crappy pics with my cell phone.





    The reason for my current cam change project is I have an intake lifter on the one cylinder that has a bad tick.
    I dunno if the lifter is bad or the cam lobe is going flat.
    I feel that a new cam, lifters and a timing chain set will continue to make my J20 the awesome tow that it is
    and generate more great stories and experiences!
    Bryan Smith
    Fort Wayne, Indiana
    2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited
    - 5.7 HEMI powered
    1982 Jeep J10
    - Progress toward road-worthiness is being made!
    1981 Jeep J20
    - Commercial flat bed - Long term Project: RUST! Long term project (RUST!)

  6. #16
    I guess a few points need to be made.

    Duration alone simply shifts the point along the RPM range at which peak torque is produced (approximately 500RPM higher for each ten degree increase in duration) - assuming all other aspects of the engine remain the same.

    Having said that, a cam with high duration and resulting late intake closing point can, and usually does, result in a drop in cylinder pressure and therefore usually a loss in power across the board. This is why you see cam recommendations suggest an increase in compression with longer duration cams - in order to maintain or increase cylinder pressure. The other side effect of long duration is a general narrowing of the torque curve which usually results in a loss of bottom end power - this can be countered somewhat by increasing the LSA.

    Most people choose cams based upon duration and lift. What they should base a cam decision on is overlap and LSA. LSA should be chosen relative to valve size to displacement ratio and whether peak torque or wide torque curve is desired. Overlap should be chosen on loading application, single or dual plane manifold use, and exhaust restriction characteristics. Intake valve closing point should be based upon its effect on dynamic compression ratio. Lift should be chosen based upon the flow characteristics of your heads. Duration then falls into place as a function of overlap and valve timing requirments.

    For your stock compression and heads to be used for towing, keep overlap in the 30 -35degree range.
    Look for an LSA of 112.
    Keep duration short to help build cylinder pressure.
    Fast ramp rate is always good.
    No need to get crazy on lift.

    OR you could do what everyone else does and be content running neck and neck with them
    Bare Tub Restoring 69 BBB Javelin SST 390 Go/Mod Pak
    Frame Off Restoring 82 Wagoneer with 401 MPEFI transplant
    "First rule of government funding; Why build one when you can build two at twice the price!"

  7. #17
    Quote Originally Posted by Goose
    I have a J-10 with a 360 T-176 4 spd and 3:73 rears on 33" tires the 360 is basically a stock bottom end with the torker manifold edelbrock carb headers and the cam is an old schneider grind that I will try to find the specs on..


    Hey Goose, you should try a dual plane intake manifold and see what happens.

    Just a suggestion
    Bare Tub Restoring 69 BBB Javelin SST 390 Go/Mod Pak
    Frame Off Restoring 82 Wagoneer with 401 MPEFI transplant
    "First rule of government funding; Why build one when you can build two at twice the price!"

  8. #18
    Thank you from BT Ultra tech
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    cam choice

    What about a Crane 278 H for the same application?
    SPEED COSTS MONEY: HOW FAST DO YOU WANT TO GO?

  9. #19

    Re: cam choice

    Quote Originally Posted by JERSEYJOE
    What about a Crane 278 H for the same application?
    You would need to increase compression quite a bit to gain back the low speed torque this cam would lose in a stock motor. Peak torque would likely be low relative to what a shorter duration cam could produce in a stock engine, and not reach peak torque until fairly high up the rpm range even with higher compression.
    Bare Tub Restoring 69 BBB Javelin SST 390 Go/Mod Pak
    Frame Off Restoring 82 Wagoneer with 401 MPEFI transplant
    "First rule of government funding; Why build one when you can build two at twice the price!"

  10. #20

    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    Monmouth,OR
    Posts
    48
    The 246hdp is a stock spec cam (replacement) so I would do the 260 or 270hdp cam. 260 comp is good as well. The crane 278 would suck. The crane pm H-290 or 266 would work good!
    Don't look at the advertised duration, look at the .050 duration.
    `81 CJ5,304,T-176.

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