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i'm pretty confused by a few things.a little background first.i bought an 83 cj with what appears to be an 89 g-wag 360 in it.i ran it a few miles and it died. i pulled the dizzy,and found the cam gear and dist gear were stripped and it had jumped time.so i pulled another set of gears from a spare motor and was gonna fix it.first i wanted to find out what caused the gear failure.after disassembling the front half of my motor we found nothing that would have caused the failure.oil hole in cam gear lined up fine,no casting flash etc.so i decided to tear into the oil pump.disassembled the pump,clearances all looked good no gouges,burrs,nothing.pulled the relief plunger and spring..looked good.then i grabbed the oil filter.thunk thunk.wtf?so i cut the filter open and it looked like a crushed beer can inside.it had a bosch filter on it and the part number cross referenced to the napa 1258.so i go to napa...and ask for a filter for an 89 g-wag.they give me 1626.i tell him isn't it supposed to be a 1258?he says not for 89.so i installed the filter and fired her up.60 psi cold 25psi at 200 degrees with 5/30 in it.seems to be fine so far(about 45 minutes run time.then reading on here i see that everyone is recommending the 1258.then i read this in the sticky on filter adapters
"Posted: Thu Dec 15, 2005 7:27 pm Post subject: Oil filters - wrong one will fry engine
Don't forget that there are two distinct oil filter numbers as well, one US & one metric (guessing), if you use the wrong one, I hope your oil pressure light is working because you will soon be sucking air!!!
The metric ones have a caution sticker on the inner fenderwell warning of the possibility of using the wrong filter.
The vehicle I saw the sticker on was about a '90 Wagoneer type boat that the owner put the wrong filter on after putting in a salvage yard engine. Too bad he didn't hook up the idiot lights!!! He got to put yet another engine in after that."
now i'm really confused.is my 89 filter adapter different?whats the difference between napa gold 1258 and 1626?is using the 1258 type(bosch equivelent)filter on the 89 adapter what caused the other filter to fail and cause the gears to strip?this is a fairly healthy motor and i don't want to hurt it.can someone please school me on this whole deal?thanks in advance.jeremy
so after a little research i found that the 83 360 calls for a 1258(anti drainback,13/16 16 thread).the 86 360 calls for a 1522 (13/16 16 thread).and an 89 360 calls for a 1626(anti drainback 20x1.50 mm thread).so how do i tell if my filter adapter is standard or metric?why does the 83 and 86 360 use a different filter with the same thread?could using the standard thread on a metric adapter cause this to happen to my engine even though there was no external leaks?i don't even wanna run this thing now
I dont think its 2 distinct filter changes for the 83 and 86 but I do believe Chrysler started using their metric filter stud in 1987. AMC oil filters were the same size and shape from 1967-1986 (Or one that fits one motor will fit all) ...hopefully that isnt confusing. I would look at a WIX or Napa gold for your next filter. Some of the off brand filters are being made by Fram and have such a tight filtering media that is collapses even if it has a bypass in it.
i am running the napa gold now.my biggest concern is how to tell if my adapter is standard or metric.it had a standard 13/16 16 thread filter on it when i bought it,and i'm now running the metric filter since the motor and timing cover both are dated 89.
this is in the filer adapter sticky thread at the top:
Posted: Thu Dec 15, 2005 7:27 pm Post subject: Oil filters - wrong one will fry engine
Don't forget that there are two distinct oil filter numbers as well, one US & one metric (guessing), if you use the wrong one, I hope your oil pressure light is working because you will soon be sucking air!!!
The metric ones have a caution sticker on the inner fenderwell warning of the possibility of using the wrong filter.
The vehicle I saw the sticker on was about a '90 Wagoneer type boat that the owner put the wrong filter on after putting in a salvage yard engine. Too bad he didn't hook up the idiot lights!!! He got to put yet another engine in after that.
he he he...no Oil doesnt travel from the pan through the filter and then to the pump. It travels to the pump then filter so you wont be "sucking air". Worst case scenario it that you have leaking between the stud and the oil filter. If your oil filter threads on there without having to drive it with a filter wrench then you should be fine.
Yes and if you look on the bottom of the oil filter you probly have a oil filter without a oil filter bypass (good) Couple this type of oil filter adaptor and a poor choice of oil filter and it can collapse and without a bypass you will have stripped your distributor or camshaft gear.
Recently an AMC hobbyist bought a bunch of filters and a hacksaw. His findings showed three really good filters: Hastings, Baldwin and Wix products; Napa gold is Wix and also Carquest, they have "Affinia" on the label. There were some other decent types such as Purolator. The local Alfa place sells only Baldwin filters.
As for oil, The type that I preferred was Valvoline fleet oil. It carried all the API ratings plus Cat & Mil-Spec.It is hard to locate and I remember only one viscocity: 15/40. For engine break in, a straight weight is considered best.
Concerns over Zinc Phosphates can be addressed by using BG MOA ( motor oil additive). About $20 per can.
All new filters should have an internal bypass. That is why the factory was able to eliminate the passage in the filter pad;reports indicated it would open unnecessarily.
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