Looks to me like an Intentional viewport...Bet that would be some good video.. Holesaw anyone?
Looks to me like an Intentional viewport...Bet that would be some good video.. Holesaw anyone?
"A man's got to know his limitation's"
Dirty Harry.
About a minute after the water pump stopped turning.Originally Posted by ironman_gq
Jeff
1979 Jeep CJ-7 401 AMC, GMC 6-71 Blower 10% overdrive, Bugcatcher with electronic fuel injection and a little N2O for fun, all self built. (this supercharger stuff is easy)
Ok getting ready to check oil flow thru the gear
Jeff
1979 Jeep CJ-7 401 AMC, GMC 6-71 Blower 10% overdrive, Bugcatcher with electronic fuel injection and a little N2O for fun, all self built. (this supercharger stuff is easy)
Jeff, do you have the Rollmaster with the Torrington bearing or the one without the bearing?
I was thinking again last night. Sometimes I think I'm way over-thinking this stuff, but I'm paranoid after our experience with the first rebuild. I was looking at the path from the oil hole in the front of the cam.
Fuzz has the Rollmaster without the bearing, and posted a pic here a while back showing the recess that runs the whole way around the timing gear to give the oil a path from the cam hole to the groove running thru the gear along the cam. Our Rollmaster has the bearing, and although there is a recess, it sure doesn't look very deep.
Nevermind Jeff. I went back and reread that old Rollmaster thread, and saw that you did state you don't have the bearing. I also see Fuzz posted pics of gears both w/ and w/o the bearing and the oil recess looks the same on both.Originally Posted by 1980_Cj7
Now, get some video of the oil flying on yours. Crank up that...drill. In fact, give the drill a shot of that NOS.
Jeff,
I am a newbiew here, this is awesome tech! Thanks for sharing! I have been lurking, enjoying your build, =D> and I did not think I had anything to contribute, but wanted to through this out since I have not seen any mention of it with your (lack of) lube at the dizzy gear. This is something I added to my 401. When I did the oiling modification to the galley on my 401, I also tapped the timing cover case and added the oil line to the timing chain/dizzy gear externally. Don't have any performance results to report yet, but I am wondering if you considered this in removing material by making the slots bigger on the cam gear Here is a pic in the link http://rides.webshots.com/photo/1466...69564115eWFeQY . Thats just a coat hanger next to the tube so I could get my bends correct.
My feeling, I could be wrong, it can't hurt to bath that chain and gear in oil!
etjeep, wht size line are you looking to run and from where?
" “It is said that men go mad in herds, and only come to their senses slowly, and one by one.." -Charles MacKay
"'The trouble with our liberal friends is not that they're ignorant; it's just that they know so much that isn't so.' "
-Ronald Reagan
VOTE
Which line? The line to the timing cover was small. IIRC 1/8", its the copper line in my linked pic above. I don't think you need much to keep it lubed plus you want to keep that line small so you don't starve the rest of the system.
Mudrat,
My pic did not upload, you need to go to the link. It is supplied from the oil pressure sending unit, just tee off.
Eric
Well after 3 hours of uploading about 5 minutes of oiling videos here goes. Lube wasn't my problem. I realize now that if all the oiling paths are correct the cam gear can flow copius amounts of oil.
Specicifications;
1. Engine was rotated and stopped at 50 degrees BTDC.
2. Oil viscosity, Valvoline 20-50 Racing oil.
3. Used the original oil filter adapter with the bypass.
4. Modified a 1515 NAPA Gold filter.
5. Plunger for oil pressure was stuck initally,( I just jammed in a plunger I had laying around. I didn't care for maintaining a constant pressure, just to see the flow and document it with the fuel pressure gage.
6. The best I could measure the amount of torque required to turn the shaft at 15 PSI was 32 in/lbs of torque required.
( before the last video, I couldn't document it as I had to do this with both hands. No helper. )
First vid just getting started. The oil still has water in it, thats why it's milky but actually gives a good contrast to see.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BIPw9NjKdfM
Second vid, my drill motor chuck kept on loosing up
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5xP38DCBgUo
Third vid, drill motor was starting to heat up and I eventually burned it out
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j8a4gk78U60
Forth vid I used my big 20 year old Rockwell drill, its shakey but I had to hold the big drill in one hand and the camera in the other.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=42ZFJrA19IQ
Conclusions
1. If all the oil paths are aligned you need no additional oiling mods.
2. The torque reqired initally is significant, the higher the pressure the harder to turn as evidenced by the counterclockwise rotation on releasing the drill at higher pressures above 70 PSI.
3. More observations folks?
1979 Jeep CJ-7 401 AMC, GMC 6-71 Blower 10% overdrive, Bugcatcher with electronic fuel injection and a little N2O for fun, all self built. (this supercharger stuff is easy)