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Final days of the 401 on the dyno - Page 15
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Thread: Final days of the 401 on the dyno

  1. #141

    Join Date
    Jan 2007
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    28
    Jeff,

    Your vids clearly indicate additional oiling mods are not needed (assuming the oil passages are clear). If I had I seen your vids before I added this line, I would not have wasted my time and $30 (IIRC).

    So I understand your comment not to add this line because it is not necessary. Do you think the relatively small flow rate at this location would be enough to cause lack of oiling elsewhere? I don't have flow data, but I can't see a couple extra squirts on the chain hurting. Its easy enough to cap though, even though its already installed.

    Getting back to the cam gear wear, Jeff said “I believe my problem was excessive oil pressure resulting in the cam gear trying to turn the dizzy/oil pump shaft beyond it's designed operating torque input.” 900 Hp may be the limit on the stock oil pump shaft, wonder if a stronger shaft material is warranted.

    There was another Q I wanted to ask you.....I cut out the middle of my valley pan gasket http://rides.webshots.com/photo/1465...69564115yGMllG
    to do the other galley oiling modification. Was I dreaming or did I hear somebody say they would leave the valley pan gasket off due to the massive quantity of oil in the valley. If I was dreaming, please ignore, otherwise I would be interested in learning why. This thread has been excellent tech.
    Eric Terjesen
    1978 Wagoneer - 401

  2. #142
    Thank you from BT Jedi gear head
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    [quote="etjeep"]Jeff,

    Your vids clearly indicate additional oiling mods are not needed (assuming the oil passages are clear). If I had I seen your vids before I added this line, I would not have wasted my time and $30 (IIRC).

    So I understand your comment not to add this line because it is not necessary. Do you think the relatively small flow rate at this location would be enough to cause lack of oiling elsewhere? I don't have flow data, but I can't see a couple extra squirts on the chain hurting. Its easy enough to cap though, even though its already installed.

    Well I'm certainly not a expert but the issues as I see them for the added line are:
    1. Vibration fatigue of the line over time.
    2. The extra oil could always be used for better items like your bearings.
    3. The timing cover area has more than enough oiling
    .

    Getting back to the cam gear wear, Jeff said “I believe my problem was excessive oil pressure resulting in the cam gear trying to turn the dizzy/oil pump shaft beyond it's designed operating torque input.” 900 Hp may be the limit on the stock oil pump shaft, wonder if a stronger shaft material is warranted.

    The 900 Hp isn't the problem, or the material of the oil pump shaft. Its the TORQUE required to turn the pump if the oil pressure is too high whether it be at idle or Wide open throttle actually I was talking about the gears themselves.

    There was another Q I wanted to ask you.....I cut out the middle of my valley pan gasket http://rides.webshots.com/photo/1465...69564115yGMllG
    to do the other galley oiling modification. Was I dreaming or did I hear somebody say they would leave the valley pan gasket off due to the massive quantity of oil in the valley. If I was dreaming, please ignore, otherwise I would be interested in learning why. This thread has been excellent tech.[
    /quote]

    Most people leave the valley pan and either cut it, or install the valley line close to the engine block to prevent interference. I cut the valley pan myself but on the reinstallation I will use the SCE gaskets and a crankcase EVAC system. You have to use the valley pan if you don't have a intake pan (sucks oil into PCV valve)

    Jeff
    1979 Jeep CJ-7 401 AMC, GMC 6-71 Blower 10% overdrive, Bugcatcher with electronic fuel injection and a little N2O for fun, all self built. (this supercharger stuff is easy)

  3. #143
    Thank you from BT Jedi gear head
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    So moving on the pushrods are fine


    The valve geometry is correct


    Upon removal of the oil pan clean, clean, clean, except for undrained oil. And all the little bottom end parts are still where they need to be.




    Maybe I can get to the bearings tomorrow.

    Jeff
    1979 Jeep CJ-7 401 AMC, GMC 6-71 Blower 10% overdrive, Bugcatcher with electronic fuel injection and a little N2O for fun, all self built. (this supercharger stuff is easy)

  4. #144

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    Jan 2007
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    Cary, NC
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    Jeff,
    Thanks.
    Looks good.
    Eric Terjesen
    1978 Wagoneer - 401

  5. #145
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    Well it's been a few weeks, and I have removed all the bearings for checking and after inspection I have rolled in all new bearings. When people say wash that block after machining they mean it. I washed, pressure washed, washed with gun barrel brushes, oil galley brushes, washed until I thought I could drink clear water out of it and still I had some debris stuck somewhere. It ended up in the bearings, but then again thats what they are for (besides a foundation for oil). No damage to the crank so I'm good to go.

    Stats
    Clevite 77 bearings, copper back, standard size.
    .003-.0035 clearance.
    All bearings show high load (but thats to be expected with Nitrous, and remember I had oil pressure issues in the beginning.
    Id like to have a choice of High Performance bearings but what choices have we got for our AMC's? ACL or Clevite. MC should pursue a new vendor.






    Connecting rod bearings, number 8 cylinder. The oiling hole is not standard I installed it because I have drilled conn rods for floating pins.








    Number 8 journal.



    Notice the rub on the crank from the Carillo rods. No big deal. No temperature discolor just a rub, it'll wear in.







    Bottom cap of number 8 conn rod, notice the rub on the cap from the crank cheek.



    Number 5 main journal.

    More pics comming.
    1979 Jeep CJ-7 401 AMC, GMC 6-71 Blower 10% overdrive, Bugcatcher with electronic fuel injection and a little N2O for fun, all self built. (this supercharger stuff is easy)

  6. #146
    Thank you from BT Jedi gear head
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    The full set of mains, the oiling hole has been drilled out to .343 diameter.








    Thrust sides






    Number 5 main journal




    Back side pressure marks


    Jeff
    1979 Jeep CJ-7 401 AMC, GMC 6-71 Blower 10% overdrive, Bugcatcher with electronic fuel injection and a little N2O for fun, all self built. (this supercharger stuff is easy)

  7. #147
    Thank you from BT ULTIMUS MAXIMUS STATUS jeepsr4ever's Avatar
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    With the amount of power you were putting out you would expect to see some wear but the wear on the thrust is massive. I wonder if we arent seeing some dirt from assembly
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  8. #148
    Dirt followed by bearing babbit material.

    How do the cam bearings look?

    Did you clean the crank oil passages out good too?
    Bare Tub Restoring 69 BBB Javelin SST 390 Go/Mod Pak
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  9. #149
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    Quote Originally Posted by jeepsr4ever
    With the amount of power you were putting out you would expect to see some wear but the wear on the thrust is massive. I wonder if we arent seeing some dirt from assembly
    Well MC you would think so, however the thrust faces on the bearings are not coated. And actually only one side shows a little rubbing.
    This is the only side that has a little rub. Thats the problem with Clevite bearings they don't coat the thrust side.

    Yes crank was cleaned well too, however I did alot of machining on the block, drilled the main galley holes bigger etc.




    Jeff
    1979 Jeep CJ-7 401 AMC, GMC 6-71 Blower 10% overdrive, Bugcatcher with electronic fuel injection and a little N2O for fun, all self built. (this supercharger stuff is easy)

  10. #150
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    Conn rod bearings.



    1979 Jeep CJ-7 401 AMC, GMC 6-71 Blower 10% overdrive, Bugcatcher with electronic fuel injection and a little N2O for fun, all self built. (this supercharger stuff is easy)

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