It's time to rebuild my TF727 and I'm looking for the best way to build it. The CJ7 has a 360 howell efi, TF727, D300 & 37MTR's. I DD it once a week and trail ride it about eight times a year. What torque convertor should I be looking for? I want it to shift smooth. I drove one with some type of shift kit and it shifted hard.
I'm a manual trans guy (at least for off road).
You want to use a converter that will put your engine in it's power band. If your engine/cam combo pulls just off idle, then get the lowest stall converter you can. If it makes it's power over 2000 RPM, then you want a little higher stall. Most factory converters stall in the 1500-1800 RPM range. The stall speed is the highest speed the converter will let the engine rev without the vehicle moving. (put one foot on the brake, one on the gas and rev it while watching the tach, the tach will only rev to a point, that's the stall of your converter). Don't do it very long or very often though, it generates a lot of heat.
Do get a large external cooler, a cool auto tranny is a happy tranny. A shift kit helps too, quicker shifts generate less heat. You don't have to go with a neck-snapping track shift kit, just something better than stock.
Bob
tufcj
1969 AMX
1967 Rambler Rogue
If you need a tool and don't buy it...
you'll eventually pay for it...
and not have it.
Henry Ford
Tufcj thanks for the input. Are there any upgrades or improvements to make during the build.
upgraded bands and clutches will help it keep together longer under hard use.
Hey, I'm a newbie here but I'll add my two cents since I have a Jeep and chose my torque converter based on my intended use. Depends what you want to use the CJ for really. Offroad is about putting your torque to the wheels, you want the largest diameter, lowest stall speed. In a street application, you want a high stall, small diameter torque converter for the high rpm launches. Obviously, there is an in between ground based on how you intend to use it before you commit.Originally Posted by onestophop
The shift kit is a block off plate that modifies the function of the hydraulic valve body in application of the shift points. I don't really understand how the various ones work exactly, but thats what they do. The stock soft shifts wears the frictions and bands prematurely. The auto tranny is designed so you don't feel it (hardly) shift in stock form. The shift kit gives your tranny longer life.
I have a T400 behind a 401 and I have the shift kit. I like it for offroad. I also have the Marv Ripes heavy duty planetary with 3:1 first gear. I have the 13" (IICR the largest on that fits) torque converter. Hopefully this helps a little.
the shift kits modify the fluid flow through the valvebody which will allow you to hold a gear and shift it manually. they also increase the pressure on the bands and clutches so it shifts faster and doesn't slip as much.
The TorqFlites are pretty heavy duty and bullit proof as they are.
They're so beefy they use up a lot of horspower before it gets to the tires.
As they've said, heavy duty clutches and bands would be about it.
Mine's been in my AMX for 10+ years with a 3000 stall
use slicks at the track, probably over 150 passes,
still worked fine. Motor is out, spun a rod bearing.
Long block is together, working out rocker geometry.
Hopefully be back together here soon.
Installed the rebuilt 727 but I need some help with my linkage. I took it apart to paint it and I get get it to engage in park when its hooked up. Can anyone post a picture of how it is suppose to look. It has factory 83 CJ7 auto trans linkage with a 727 in liue of the 904. Thanks.
What about converting the linkage to a cable shift? As the column linkage drops down the linkage rotates and pulls the shifting arm on the transmssion forward. I need a way to route the cable so it will cause the shifting arm on the transmission to move forward in the limited space available. Any help or suggestions?
Terry
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