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Thread: Having issues with my 360

  1. #1

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    Having issues with my 360

    Last year I completed a rebuild of a stock AMC 360 Grand Waggoner, I upgraded the engine with a Edlebrock Cam, and Intake combo kit. Had the heads machined flat and flowed the ports. I installed this in my Rockcrawler.

    Since day one, this thing is a dog, I am also having an issue with starting, once the engine warms up it either refuses to turn over, or it turns over very slowly, sometimes it starts, sometime you have to keep trying it to get it to crank over.

    I have tryed adjusting the timing numerous times, ( I even checked the timing marks thinking I screwed them up opon installation ) I swapped starters with a spare I had lying around, Nothing, No Help!

    Also as stated above, this thing is an absolute dog. I have built over a dozen engines previous to this one, (Only one other was an AMC ) and have been able to sort out any problems I may have had, This one has me stumped. Oh, one other bit of information, I am running a Holly Truck Avenger, which I have had excellent luck with.

    I would appreciate any suggestions anyone has to offer. I am seriously thinking of pulling the AMC and replacing it with a 500 Caddy motor I have lying around. Thanks

  2. #2
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    Re: Having issues with my 360

    Quote Originally Posted by mkozlows
    Had the heads machined flat and flowed the ports.
    What C/R are you running? Did you compensate for the machining of the heads? What timing are you running, auto or manual, what year 360, and finally what size shoes do you wear?

    Sounds retarded but did you try a new starter from the store and have you checked your battery? Had an issue like this once and it was battery related.

    Anyways I'm sure people with more knowledge than me (Read: Everyone) will chime in here soon.

    -Dave
    2005 Dodge Neon SRT4 W/Injen SRI, Prothane Race Inserts, Autometer 30/30 Boost Gauge, & AGP Wastegate She's pushin' 19lbs of Boost.

    1976 CJ7/304 W/Edelbrock intake & 600CFM Carb/Q-Track (Part Time Conversion)/TH400/Painless Wiring Harness/HEI Dist.

  3. #3

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    Re: Having issues with my 360

    Quote Originally Posted by dbesade
    Quote Originally Posted by mkozlows
    Had the heads machined flat and flowed the ports.
    What C/R are you running? Did you compensate for the machining of the heads? What timing are you running, auto or manual, what year 360, and finally what size shoes do you wear?

    Sounds retarded but did you try a new starter from the store and have you checked your battery? Had an issue like this once and it was battery related.

    Anyways I'm sure people with more knowledge than me (Read: Everyone) will chime in here soon.

    If memory serves ( Hey I am an Old Duffer ) CR was right around 9.1 Timing is currently set at 9 degrees BTDC, but I have tryed it at many other different settings, including the good old grab and twist method ( When engine is running )

    I am using 2 Optima Batterys and a 120 amp Alternator.
    Starter I tryed was from a 258 6 cylinder, but it behaved just like the original, so I figured it was not the starter.

    Size 14 double E shoe....Ha Ha.

  4. #4
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    Re: Having issues with my 360

    Quote Originally Posted by mkozlows
    Quote Originally Posted by dbesade
    Quote Originally Posted by mkozlows
    Had the heads machined flat and flowed the ports.
    What C/R are you running? Did you compensate for the machining of the heads? What timing are you running, auto or manual, what year 360, and finally what size shoes do you wear?

    Sounds retarded but did you try a new starter from the store and have you checked your battery? Had an issue like this once and it was battery related.

    Anyways I'm sure people with more knowledge than me (Read: Everyone) will chime in here soon.

    If memory serves ( Hey I am an Old Duffer ) CR was right around 9.1 Timing is currently set at 9 degrees BTDC, but I have tryed it at many other different settings, including the good old grab and twist method ( When engine is running )

    I am using 2 Optima Batterys and a 120 amp Alternator.
    Starter I tryed was from a 258 6 cylinder, but it behaved just like the original, so I figured it was not the starter.

    Size 14 double E shoe....Ha Ha.
    I would try a brand new (Rebuilt ) Starter and see if that doesn't fix the problem. The only reason I suggest that is because of the fact that from the information you have posted, that hasn't been tried yet. As the saying goes... always try the cheap stuff first...

    -Dave
    2005 Dodge Neon SRT4 W/Injen SRI, Prothane Race Inserts, Autometer 30/30 Boost Gauge, & AGP Wastegate She's pushin' 19lbs of Boost.

    1976 CJ7/304 W/Edelbrock intake & 600CFM Carb/Q-Track (Part Time Conversion)/TH400/Painless Wiring Harness/HEI Dist.

  5. #5
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    Had the same starting issues with my amx. I installed a mini starter and a dei heat shield and viola no more starting issues. As Dave asked what tranny are you running auto, or manual, if you are running an auto with a huge cam and no stall converter that could be an issue what intake are you using? single or dual plane?
    he who dies with the most toys wins!!!
    69' amx 390 4 speed best et 11.85 @ 116mph
    VOTEBUTTON

  6. #6

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    Quote Originally Posted by BREK
    Had the same starting issues with my amx. I installed a mini starter and a dei heat shield and viola no more starting issues. As Dave asked what tranny are you running auto, or manual, if you are running an auto with a huge cam and no stall converter that could be an issue what intake are you using? single or dual plane?
    My Bad, TF 727, Manual valve body, The intake is a Edlebrock Performer None air gap manifold. The cam ( Edlebrock ) spec is 278/288 Duration....448/472 Lift, Not that big a cam I don`t believe. I was at the drags last year and one of the guys running a 401 in a Matador, turning mid 10`s recommended staying away from any of the Edlebrock cam options. I am thinking he recommended a Comp Cams, but I don`t have the spec`s here at work.

    I will try changing the Starter, Who sells a decent mini starter for the AMC engine? Thanks guys.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by mkozlows
    Quote Originally Posted by BREK
    Had the same starting issues with my amx. I installed a mini starter and a dei heat shield and viola no more starting issues. As Dave asked what tranny are you running auto, or manual, if you are running an auto with a huge cam and no stall converter that could be an issue what intake are you using? single or dual plane?
    My Bad, TF 727, Manual valve body, The intake is a Edlebrock Performer None air gap manifold. The cam ( Edlebrock ) spec is 278/288 Duration....448/472 Lift, Not that big a cam I don`t believe. I was at the drags last year and one of the guys running a 401 in a Matador, turning mid 10`s recommended staying away from any of the Edlebrock cam options. I am thinking he recommended a Comp Cams, but I don`t have the spec`s here at work.

    I will try changing the Starter, Who sells a decent mini starter for the AMC engine? Thanks guys.
    Bulltear sells a great mini-starter:
    http://www.bulltear.com/catalog/prod...roducts_id=170

    -Dave
    2005 Dodge Neon SRT4 W/Injen SRI, Prothane Race Inserts, Autometer 30/30 Boost Gauge, & AGP Wastegate She's pushin' 19lbs of Boost.

    1976 CJ7/304 W/Edelbrock intake & 600CFM Carb/Q-Track (Part Time Conversion)/TH400/Painless Wiring Harness/HEI Dist.

  8. #8

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    Quote Originally Posted by dbesade
    Quote Originally Posted by mkozlows
    Quote Originally Posted by BREK
    Had the same starting issues with my amx. I installed a mini starter and a dei heat shield and viola no more starting issues. As Dave asked what tranny are you running auto, or manual, if you are running an auto with a huge cam and no stall converter that could be an issue what intake are you using? single or dual plane?
    My Bad, TF 727, Manual valve body, The intake is a Edlebrock Performer None air gap manifold. The cam ( Edlebrock ) spec is 278/288 Duration....448/472 Lift, Not that big a cam I don`t believe. I was at the drags last year and one of the guys running a 401 in a Matador, turning mid 10`s recommended staying away from any of the Edlebrock cam options. I am thinking he recommended a Comp Cams, but I don`t have the spec`s here at work.

    I will try changing the Starter, Who sells a decent mini starter for the AMC engine? Thanks guys.
    Bulltear sells a great mini-starter:
    http://www.bulltear.com/catalog/prod...roducts_id=170

    -Dave
    Thanks for the reply, Anyone care to chime in about my lack of performance.

  9. #9

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    For the lack of power, maybe re-check your distributor installation and phasing.
    Is the Coil good and hot, bright blue white spark from coil wire
    off of cap put next to metal and cranking motor ?
    Get motor to TDC compression stroke on #1 cylinder and pull distributor.
    Maybe check out the Distributor drive gears for wear.
    Many times a motor down on power is from an incorrect timing curve
    and/or distributor phasing, being that with full mechanical advance
    the rotor button is pointing directly at a cap post.
    Mech advance moves the trigger/slot/reluctor,
    vac advance moves the switch/points.
    Stock distributors usually have a very "weak" advance curve set-up.
    I'd make sure the distributor is installed, phased, and curved right.
    About 36 degrees total advance by about 3000 rpm's,
    not including any vacuum advance.
    Also, make sure the valves and lifter preload are properly adjusted maybe.

    my .02 worth anyway as a guess about lack of power.

  10. #10

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    Quote Originally Posted by AMX69PHATTY
    For the lack of power, maybe re-check your distributor installation and phasing.
    Is the Coil good and hot, bright blue white spark from coil wire
    off of cap put next to metal and cranking motor ?
    Get motor to TDC compression stroke on #1 cylinder and pull distributor.
    Maybe check out the Distributor drive gears for wear.
    Many times a motor down on power is from an incorrect timing curve
    and/or distributor phasing, being that with full mechanical advance
    the rotor button is pointing directly at a cap post.
    Mech advance moves the trigger/slot/reluctor,
    vac advance moves the switch/points.
    Stock distributors usually have a very "weak" advance curve set-up.
    I'd make sure the distributor is installed, phased, and curved right.
    About 36 degrees total advance by about 3000 rpm's,
    not including any vacuum advance.
    Also, make sure the valves and lifter preload are properly adjusted maybe.

    my .02 worth anyway as a guess about lack of power.
    I was looking at purchasing one of the single wire DUI setups, Good, Bad?

    My daughter is getting married this weekend, once that is over with I will try the valves, You may have hit upon something with the valves, I have not checked them since the initial startup of the motor. Thanks

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