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Thread: 258 won't start-Ignition issues???

  1. #21
    Thank you from BT Tech Master Bulltear Forum
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    doesn't necessarily clean the engine but it sure keeps the cam happy. Hope the new wires and plugs help with the problem.

  2. #22
    Thank you from BT ULTIMUS MAXIMUS STATUS
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    there are additives that help the " diesel engines" last longer.
    they are not in regular oil. i think it was blown7 that suggested
    using rotella-t. so far both the lincoln and suburban like the
    oil . my fuel economy went up since i started using this oil.
    getting 26mpg hiway in the lincoln and 14 out of the suburban
    with a hardin marine 454 boat engine.
    83 eagle (r.i.p.)
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  3. #23

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    By the looks of some of your pictures i can see some smog related items which would mean a newer style engine which also has a fuel return line on it. Now if in fact the fuel pump is suckin the gas down it could just be sending it right back twords your gas tank if the carbs floats are....no adjusted right....or stuck in a closed position. I don't know if this will 100% fix the problem but im just throwing the idea out. I had an 84 and when the pick-up coil went i had no spark at all. Not even a spark every now and then. I doubt it would be timing issues unless the previous owner pulled the dist. to put in the somewhat new looking pick-up coil in.......double check your timing to be on the safe side....make sure your absolutly getting gas inside the carb and it does spray fuel while just sitting and not cranking by twistin the throttle. Now i dont know if yours has a computer but i've seen them crap out on some instances and that stupid ass ICM on the fenderwell is sometimes the culprit. Let us know what all you've done so far.
    DuNgA!
    1980 CJ-5, 360 powered, T-18, Dana 20, Advanced Adapters output , 4.56's, Dana 30 frt chromoly shafts w/297 joints and Tru-Trac and M20 rear with Detroit, Superior shafts, and disc brakes and Tom Woods frt and rear shafts.........about 10k in misc aftermarket parts!

  4. #24
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    alright...new ignition module (old one tested bad), new dist. cap, rotor button, and today, new spark plugs and plug wires. Still no start
    I'm not sure what to do. The engine cranks fast like it should and doesn't kick back like it ?would? if the timing was off.
    As mentioned earlier, I know the fuel pump is pumping, but looking into the carb, I do not see fuel spray.
    Earl H.
    Carolina Full Size Jeep Club
    www.cfsjc.com
    '90 Grand Wagoneer
    '81 Cherokee
    '93 Grand Cherokee Limited
    "You can buy style, but you can't buy class"

  5. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by 76-cj7
    Now if in fact the fuel pump is suckin the gas down it could just be sending it right back twords your gas tank if the carbs floats are....no adjusted right....or stuck in a closed position....make sure your absolutly getting gas inside the carb and it does spray fuel while just sitting and not cranking by twistin the throttle. Now i dont know if yours has a computer but i've seen them crap out on some instances and that stupid ass ICM on the fenderwell is sometimes the culprit. Let us know what all you've done so far.
    DuNgA!
    I KNOW the fuel is getting to the carb. I disconnected the hard line going into the carb and checked.
    Earl H.
    Carolina Full Size Jeep Club
    www.cfsjc.com
    '90 Grand Wagoneer
    '81 Cherokee
    '93 Grand Cherokee Limited
    "You can buy style, but you can't buy class"

  6. #26
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    ok...pulled the #2 plug, re-attached the plug wire, and rested them on the cylinder head. We've DEFINITELY have fire going to/coming out of the plugs
    Earl H.
    Carolina Full Size Jeep Club
    www.cfsjc.com
    '90 Grand Wagoneer
    '81 Cherokee
    '93 Grand Cherokee Limited
    "You can buy style, but you can't buy class"

  7. #27
    Helpfull BT forum member Admiral of the Forum
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    Quote Originally Posted by 76-cj7
    By the looks of some of your pictures i can see some smog related items which would mean a newer style engine which also has a fuel return line on it. Now if in fact the fuel pump is suckin the gas down it could just be sending it right back twords your gas tank if the carbs floats are....no adjusted right....or stuck in a closed position...make sure your absolutly getting gas inside the carb and it does spray fuel while just sitting and not cranking by twistin the throttle. Now i dont know if yours has a computer but i've seen them crap out on some instances and that stupid ass ICM on the fenderwell is sometimes the culprit. Let us know what all you've done so far.
    DuNgA!
    I think you're on to something...the base of the carb is wet with gas. looks like I'll be pulling the carb tommorow for a rebuild. The Carter will have to do, for now.
    Earl H.
    Carolina Full Size Jeep Club
    www.cfsjc.com
    '90 Grand Wagoneer
    '81 Cherokee
    '93 Grand Cherokee Limited
    "You can buy style, but you can't buy class"

  8. #28

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    What i was getting at was the float is adjusted where the fuel line screws into the carb.....that little brass fitting adjusts the floats and it might be stuck closed and thus not letting any gas in.....but you deff need to check the timing on it and remember TDC is a COMPRESSION stroke so you'll need to pull #1 plug and make sure you can feel the rush of air out the cylinder. Try a diff carb and from experience do not buy a rmfg carb from shit zone, advanced crap, and napa. They will crap out due to the poor rebuild job they do and i work at auto zone and yes NAPA does have most of the same parts and so does advance with most of the same part numbers......best bet is that if it is a carb issue is too spend the few hundred bucks for a good weber or find a used one and rebuild it.......theres nuttin to em...easy job Let us know more as you go.......DuNgA
    1980 CJ-5, 360 powered, T-18, Dana 20, Advanced Adapters output , 4.56's, Dana 30 frt chromoly shafts w/297 joints and Tru-Trac and M20 rear with Detroit, Superior shafts, and disc brakes and Tom Woods frt and rear shafts.........about 10k in misc aftermarket parts!

  9. #29

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    carb

    If it has a carter 2 barrel carb, get a can of compressed air like the the stuff they use to clean computer keyboards and take your air cleaner off. There are 2 brass nozzles that spray the gas into the carb and the holes are so small they often plug up. Use the compressed air to blow out the hole in the center and then check it by opening the throttle by hand without the engine running. You should see a fine mist of gas spraying into the carb. If you do try to start it again. The nozzles can be drilled out but I forget the drill size.

  10. #30
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    drill size is .032 inches if I remember properly.

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