Rear disc brakes

[76-cj7]

Got's an 80 CJ-5 came with manual brakes, front disc and rear drum. Switched to rear SSBC disc's and now i cant get any pedal pressure???? And it's also a brand new master cylinder.....none of that rebuilt crap Auto Doom sells. Tried to tear apart Proportioning valve.....yea i might as well be looking inside a computer......i have no idea what to remove as some people say??? So anyways I got to reading......yes i know guys... it's a scary thought and all, but me??? read??? haha But i kinda came upon the conclusion that i mite need a master cylinder made for FRT and Rear discs. A 68' vette MC came up alot but i figured i might need to get ahold of one of them and a proportioning valve from a CJ with FRT and Rear drums for a 50/50 split i hear so much of.......SO guys and gals.......wudda ya all think bout it?

[tufcj]

Disc brakes need a lot more volume than drums, so a MC built for 4 wheel discs will help. Your best bet is to go to power brakes. The booster will go a long way to make the vehicle stop better.

I've been looking at the setup from www.mpbrakes.com

My 77 CJ was factory power disc/drum. I put on rear discs, and after some aggravation with getting them bled completely, they work great with all the stock parts in place. The only time I get any rear lock-up is under hard braking on icy roads.

Bob
tufcj

[76-cj7]

So how did you go about bleeding them??? I've got the same as you except manual brakes but they are way too soft and go way to the floor......the reason i like the manual is that i could lock up my 35" baja claws like nothing but yet my other two jeeps i had both with power brakes couldn't lock up my 36's let alone the bald ass 33's i had on the one!!! Plus manual is kinda nice just in case she stalls on a climb....

[tufcj]

On mine, I had to rotate the rear pinion up about 12 degrees because I run SOA + 2" lift and a CV driveshaft. The way the caliper brackets mount, the bleeders weren't directly on top. I had to take the calipers off, and put a block of wood between the pads, and hold them during bleeding. It also helped to tap the caliper (lightly) with a small hammer to free up any hanging air bubbles.

If you're running e-brake calipers, it's important that the e-brake part is adjusted properly. If that's not adjusted so it holds, then the normal brakes will never work properly.

I rebuilt the rear lines on my CJ. I removed the line across the axle and the rubber hose. I installed a "T" there, and ran lines along the frame rail. I drop flex lines from the frame in the rear just like in the front (I used the same brackets as the front, salvaged from a junkyard). It keeps everything up out of harm's way. I also have DOT approved braided lines instead of rubber. They really firm up the feel of the pedal.

Bob
tufcj

[76-cj7]

Hmmmm......my bleeders are somewhat pointing up....but ima have to try taking em off. But the e-brake is adjusted right.

[dwg86]

I have 4 wheel disc brakes on my 79 cj5. I used a dual diaphram master booster off an 84 S-10 mounted on my stock jeep power brake brackets (Had to slot holes a little. About 3/8 of an inch). Used a master cylinder off of a ws6 79 Trans Am. Porportioning valve off a 79 Cadilac with 4 wheel disc brakes(Pull a part junk yard $6.00). Rear callipers from a 79 Caddy. Jeep has a 401 with pretty big cam(not much vaccum) but will stop on a dime. Oh yeah on more thing...I made an adjustable input rod from the brake pedal to the master cylinder. Works great!

[76-cj7]

Ok....i think i figured it out. I got a MC from a 68' vette and i need to find a valve from a older jeep w/4 wheel drums. I want the valve from a Jeep so i wont have to reflare the lines and it'll be a direct swap. The MC has the same bolt up and same size lines so that is a direct swap and i think my push rod is already an adjustable one??

[jerry]

I don't remember what MC I used I know I looked at the bore size. I can see about some #.


Jerry

[dwg86]

The 1979 WS6 Trans Am had 4 wheel disc brakes. I cant remember the bore size of the master cylindre(I think it was 1 inch). I used all new stainless steel brake lines for a power brake CJ and they all fit the Caddy proportioning valve and T/A MC without cutting or reflaring.

[Mudrat]

... and put a block of wood between the legs, and hold them during bleeding. It also helped to tap lightly with a small hammer...

Anybody tell you recently your a sick man???

Hi Bob