401 for drag racing

[82Waggy]

wasnt planning on any power aders but if needs be then i dont mind.reference 8-10k is that in your money or mine

Yours I hope! - USD.

That estimate is just for the parts I mentioned. I think you will easily spend 20k having someone build this for you.

[radamx]

bored .085 to 4.250.
crank offset ground to large journal 2.100 chevy rod and 3.825 stroke.
Indy 401-1 heads and intake.
702,722 lift 274,280 duration at .050.sollid roller.
6 inch chevy rod ,custom JE pistons 13.2 ot 1.

this engine was built to run on nitrous so it is not maxed out on the motor.It could make more if it was built to run without the nitrous.

motor pull
741.6 HP at 7500 rpm
572 ft torque at 5800 rpm

1st stage nitrous 200 hp
942.9 hp at 6800 rpm
851.0 ft torque 5700 rpm

2nd stage nitrous another 200 hp total of 400 hp.
1162 hp at 7300 rpm
1000.8 ft torque at 5800

there is a lots of ways to do this it is not that hard to get the results you are looking for .I would suggest looking at heads before doing anything else. for that power level.you will need either the Indy heads,Hermin lewis or Brewer heads. just depends how crazy you want to get.

[82Waggy]

Hey rad, did you bore stock cylinders to 4.25?

[Blown7]

I know now I would not build a stock cast iron block to over 600 HP at 6000 RPM ever again.
I did have good luck, (and hope to for the long term future) but when you look at the aftermarket part prices that you will have to spend to use the OEM block and still have a 30 yr old piece of Iron holding it all together I would at least spend the 4 thousand US dollars and start with a Indy block and crank to get that high horsepower and reliablity.
If you are looking to get in RADAMX's league of over 1000 HP I'd hate to see your crankshaft break and send it all down the tube.( I understand he does have a aftermarket crankshaft.
I myself have over 30K US dollars in my engine but 18K of that is poweradders and electronic engine management.

Jeff

[barneybrendan]

ok lets say keep the motor to the 700hp region with nos would that be an easier solution or cause even more of a headache.car not planned to be completed until easter 2009 so build can be steady anyway.

[milnersXcoupe]

What Transmission / Rear Combo do you have in mind to hook to an AMC 401 to take 800 HP - if you don't mind my asking ?

I suggest you read everything on this site - then:

Build your 401 for 550HP > have Crane Cams cut you a Hydraulic Roller Camshaft > use Forged Pistons > extra head bolt > '0' ring heads /cyl. > have 'Bulltear' mod you an Edlebrock intake for Fuel Injectors > use a belt Driven Supercharger - not 6-71 - style > or use Turbo Charger[s].


For a 25 mile drive - you won't know the difference between 600 or 700 HP as you won't be able to pull a 'Quid' off the dash when @ WOT in second gear - with simply 500HP - in a 2000 lb. car ...... heLO?

Building for 500-550 , your engine will last and your investment can be driven anywhere simply by rolling off the Boost.

If you want more - buy the INDY AMC engine and Turbo Charge that to 1200 HP - by adding more Boost & Fuel.

Were'nt 'MERLIN' Aero Fighter Engines 1200 HP ?

[82Waggy]

Here's a build article for a 390 making about 540hp. Should give you some ideas.

http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/e...ild/index.html

[barneybrendan]

ok just been on a fiew sites using the estimated 1/4 mile times .so 2000lb car with 550hp roughly in the low 9s obviously depending on gearing .so maybe thinking of more hp is overkill for the time.
looking back through old posts this sort of hp seems a more realistic capability.the idea of turbos was my first thought when i had the 360 motor but was advised then to get a 401.
ref box 727 axle ford 9"

[milnersXcoupe]

Everything I've read - been 'advised' - is that the 360 cast crankshaft is fine with 500HP. - but stop there.

Weak point has been the cast connecting rods and the lack of swaps as the big end is wider - .

Mad Dog Racing now sells SCAT AMC 360 Forged 'H' Beam or 'I' Beam conncting rods.

A 360 Cast Crank weighs as much as 15 lbs. less than a 390 / 401 - I've heard, as no one here has weighed them side by side or is talkin' ....

A 360 block I have heard is some 40 lbs. lighter than a 401 - I have heard - as no one here has weighed them side by side or is talkin'....

I was all set to install a 'needs alot of work' stock 401 crankshaft in my 1978 360 - but have decided to save the weight and the money - and spend that on a Turbo or Two.

I've a 2004 Lexus A761E 6spd automatic 'warmed' by IPT :

http://www.ipttrans.com/

trans is good for 450HP - and on the Street - I won't know the difference of '50HP' after surviving 450HP with 6 speeds and a lo rear........

For what you've explained - go with Stock Heads freshen'd after a call CRANE Cams in Florida for a 'Custom' Turbo grind Hydraulic Roller Cam Kit / extra head bolts / O-ring heads to block / ARP everything / OIL MODIFICATIONS ala 'Bulltear' / take a look at EDELBROCK's mpfi for AMC as you can swap out easily available parts to fit your build and pick up two nicely sized Turbos.

Run to the Beach using very little Boost on 8 to 1 Forged - then spin the Boost up to punish the local Bizzarrini 5300 GT Strada -



"A Perfect World" =D>

[radamx]

I know now I would not build a stock cast iron block to over 600 HP at 6000 RPM ever again.
I did have good luck, (and hope to for the long term future) but when you look at the aftermarket part prices that you will have to spend to use the OEM block and still have a 30 yr old piece of Iron holding it all together I would at least spend the 4 thousand US dollars and start with a Indy block and crank to get that high horsepower and reliablity.
If you are looking to get in RADAMX's league of over 1000 HP I'd hate to see your crankshaft break and send it all down the tube.( I understand he does have a aftermarket crankshaft.
I myself have over 30K US dollars in my engine but 18K of that is poweradders and electronic engine management.

Jeff

I agree the Indy block is a good Idea. But the reality for most of us is it is too expensive.
I am saveing for one as we speak.
I am useing a factory block with 3/4 fill of block filler.
I am also useing a factory crank offset ground to a chevy large journal rod.it was cryo treated after grinding.
I hope to build a new engine with the indy block and aftermarket crank in a couple of years .but untill then I have confidence in what I have now .
I think I am pushing the factory crank and block to the limits .So far I have not stepped over the line yet.
the bigest problem I have seen is if you do not have the extra head bolt of some kind .does not have to be big. they tend to leak by the head gasket below the spark plug.
As said above I too have been lucky and hope it stays with me for a long time to come.