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Thread: anyone know this 318is??

  1. #11
    Thank you from BT Jedi gear head
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    CT
    Posts
    608
    Quote Originally Posted by 1980_Cj7
    Quote Originally Posted by Blown7
    Install the Unilite and be done with it.


    Jeff
    That's what I started out to do, but then saw the difference in connectors and all, and thought maybe I'll just put the old one back in just to get this thing back on the road as quickly and painlessly as possible, until I saw the damage. Guess I'll start shinin' up the Unilite.

    I'm a little confused on how it gets wired though. The dizzy has red, green, and black wires going to a connector. The other half of the connector has the same three wires, red going to + on the coil, green going to - on the coil, and black going to ground. The resistor has a wire running from one side to the + post on the coil. The other side of the resistor is empty.
    The other side of the resistor is connected to ignition "on".
    There is NOTHING else to connect. It's very simple
    Forget about anything else.
    .
    Use the first diagram
    http://go.mrgasket.com/pdf/Unilite_Wiring.pdf

    Jeff

    Don't I have to tie the Duraspark box in some how?
    1979 Jeep CJ-7 401 AMC, GMC 6-71 Blower 10% overdrive, Bugcatcher with electronic fuel injection and a little N2O for fun, all self built. (this supercharger stuff is easy)

  2. #12

    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Middletown, PA
    Posts
    590
    Quote Originally Posted by Blown7
    The other side of the resistor is connected to ignition "on".
    There is NOTHING else to connect. It's very simple
    Forget about anything else.
    .
    Use the first diagram
    http://go.mrgasket.com/pdf/Unilite_Wiring.pdf

    Jeff
    Nah, I'm not doing that. That's definitely WAY too easy! I'll have to find some way to complicate things. Can't be havin' any of them EASY buttons on our Jeep!

    No, seriously, I'm luvin' it! It will be great to get rid of the Duraspark box, or the hybrid box we built with the GM HEI module in it that we never could get to work right. I'm thinking if I use the OEM resistance wire, I won't even need to add the resistor.

    You had mentioned to be sure to use a compatible coil, stock oil filled or one recommended by Mallory. Will a Ford e-core coil be OK?

    Now the next thing I just thought of is we'll have to change the distributor ends on the brand new plug wires we set up for the TFI conversion. Unless...Mallory makes a cap to fit that has the HEI type terminals.

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