one with the center knocked out but I have not done much road driving but when I did it was around 200 - 210
one with the center knocked out but I have not done much road driving but when I did it was around 200 - 210
best ever 11.669 @ 112.33 mph in 1/4 mile on 33 x 10.50 slicks and 4" lift / 7.358 @ 93.03 mph in the 1/8 mile
And for everybody who wants to hear it, I was thinking, I do have a mike hooked to the computer, and I could pull the Jeep over to the window right beside the computer and reach the mike out the window as far as it will reach.
The neighbors are REALLY gonna think I've lost it now! Good thing there aren't any too close. Still have a little bit of elbow room out here.
I thought I saw one with the center knocked out somewhere. Don't think I ever saw your t-stat exposed though. Just remembered, the t-stat in the OEM intake that was originally on this engine was gutted. Hmmm....Originally Posted by fuzz401
Why do you need to keep any of it? Couldn't you just remove the whole thing, or do you need it to hold the gasket or something?
keep some restriction in the water
best ever 11.669 @ 112.33 mph in 1/4 mile on 33 x 10.50 slicks and 4" lift / 7.358 @ 93.03 mph in the 1/8 mile
Just for the heck of it try a short run with the hood off, there is a small chance that even with a good fan, you aren,t getting enough airflow to allow to cooling system to do its job. A friend has a 54 Willys truck with a 350 Chev motor and we took it to S Dak a few years ago and on the highway it ran real hot. He had put a huge heater in it from the back of a cube van [it gets to 30 and 40 below here in winter] and made a duct leading out the passenger vent window and it was enough to bring the temp back down on the highway to the 200 range. Its just an opinion but I believe you need a thermostat in the system to allow the cooling system to maintain an even temp for the engine.
84 CJ 7 304, Arb rear, 35 BFG,s with a 2 1/2 spring lift only and to many other mods to list, plus a offroad trailer also on 35 BFG,s
Yes, we've been talking about making some blocks for under the hood hinges to raise the back end up and let a gap for some air to escape. Might have to try running it with the hood off. Good idea. I was thinking that when it is sitting idling, the hood has been open.
Yeah ya gotta have a T-Stat, or at the minimum a restrictor plate.
I would change your T-Stat to the 195 degree and see what it does.
Pretty sure 195 was stock.
A too cold T-Stat can actually make it run hot cause the T-Stat nevers closes down,
which slows water flow through the radiator and lets it loose heat.
Have had good results with Mr. Gasket Hi-Perf Balanced T-stat's.
Mr. Gasket
Hi-Perf Balanced Thermostats
AMC V8
#4365 = 195*f
#4364 = 180*f
#4363 = 160*f
'69 AMX #11,856 BSO/Saddle 343-4V Auto Go-Pak A/C Leather
http://home.fuse.net/ckthomas/AMXSIG5.jpg
OK, got a recording for y'all.
https://home.comcast.net/~rwsr50/Com..._recording.mp3
Ya know what, think I just bought the SAME CAM that you're using
Labeled as an Elgin Cam under part #E-1041-P
it has same specs as the Clevite Cam #229-1972
.488/.488 - 218/218 - 284/284
In - Op 4 BTC - CL 34 ABC - 105 CL
Ex - Op 44 BBC - CL 6 BTC - 115 CL
So has anyone else used, or is using this cam ?
Any good for 6000-6500 in a 10.2:1 360 ?
Kinda worried about effective CR and detonation though
due to early 34 deg Intake closing Angle and 10.2:1 Static CR.
'69 AMX #11,856 BSO/Saddle 343-4V Auto Go-Pak A/C Leather
http://home.fuse.net/ckthomas/AMXSIG5.jpg
When I degreed it, I had to retard it 2* to hit the straight up specs on the cam. After I did that, both centerlines were right on, and both valves were opening 1* earlier and closing 1* later than the specs. In other words, I ended up with 220*/220*. The intake was opening and the exhaust was closing at the same spot, 5* BTC. No overlap at all. That is supposed to be good for idle and vacuum, but I don't know if has any bad effects. I thought the cam specs sounded real good, that's why I went with that one. But then, what do I know about chickens???
I ran the KB calculator with the actual numbers from degreeing, and ended up with 8.531 dynamic compression ratio. That was with KB354 9.5:1 pistons, .045 piston to head clearance, and .040 over on the bores.
KB's web page says pump gas should be good to 8.5 to 1 on a stock cast iron head engine, and 9 to 1 on a quench engine. The KB354's are supposed to be designed for quench, so I figure we should be alright. I also had sent all our specs to KB and asked them if it would run on pump gas, and they replied yes, but we may have to use high test.