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Oiling Solutions
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Thread: Oiling Solutions

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  1. #1

    Join Date
    May 2007
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    Nevada
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    Oiling Solutions

    Hey guys, new to this form, but not new to Jeeps. I've owned my 1980 CJ7 for 15 years and recently decided to throw a 360 in it. I pulled one out of a 1982 Wagoneer and it's at the machine shop right now.

    My question is, which of the oiling mods will be necessary for a long engine life. I plan on buying the timing cover/oil filter adapter w/out the oil filter bypass. I see there are many other mods that I can do as well, but not sure if I need them for my intended use.

    The Jeep will be used as a daily driver and will hit the trails frequently. I won't be racing the thing or competing in mud bogs. It will most likely be used at a lower rpm easing my way up the Rubicon or endless other trails in the Sierras.

    Thanks for your input.

  2. #2
    Deep sump pan and pickup tube is all that you need.

    Just say no to the valley bypass line.
    Bare Tub Restoring 69 BBB Javelin SST 390 Go/Mod Pak
    Frame Off Restoring 82 Wagoneer with 401 MPEFI transplant
    "First rule of government funding; Why build one when you can build two at twice the price!"

  3. #3

    Join Date
    Jun 2006
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    '69 AMX 12.60@107 - Ohio, unfortunately (:-P)
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    How about some mods to help oil drain back to the pan ?
    Deburr and chamfer valley holes.
    Chamfer the 2 holes in the front.
    Drill some 3/16 or so holes in the valley inbetween the lifters.
    Slightly enlarge drainback holes in the heads ?
    It doesn't help the heads drain back to the valley.
    Restrictive BullTear Pushrods and Cam Bearings
    help limit how much oil goes to the heads
    but are mainly for high rpm as I understand.
    What about welding up the small hole in top of the Pick-Up bell ?
    What about the BullTear Oil Pump gears with the Pressure Reliefs in the bottoms ?
    Agree with the extra capacity oil pan
    since AMC's pump all the oil up top, drain back is dismal,
    and the pan ends up getting pumped dry.

    '69 AMX #11,856 BSO/Saddle 343-4V Auto Go-Pak A/C Leather
    http://home.fuse.net/ckthomas/AMXSIG5.jpg

  4. #4
    He is not turning high RPM and it is a daily driver (not a drag car) so I would not be as concerned about drainback as I would be about cooling the valvetrain. Be careful restricting oil to the top on a daily driver as it is necesssary to keep springs cool and rockers lubed.

    Increased oil capacity and a deep sump to keep oil around the pickup should cover his (most everybody's) needs.

    Restrictive cam bearings do not control oil to the top - they just hold oil back from the cam so that more is available elsewhere. This is the last place I would restrict oil to.

    I would also hesitate drilling additional holes in the block. There is plenty of windage lubing the cam.

    Deburring is never a bad idea.

    There are a lot worse engines for drainback than an AMC and they live just fine.

    Might consider gun drilling the oil pick up path that runs down the pan skirt to a slightly larger size, but I have seen much smaller in other engines.

    Oh, Be sure to run some EOS with your break in oil (Delo10w30 would be good for break in). Change the filter after the first 20 minutes of cam break in (Wix 5125. Use Mobil1 10w30 and another new filter after 100 miles.
    Bare Tub Restoring 69 BBB Javelin SST 390 Go/Mod Pak
    Frame Off Restoring 82 Wagoneer with 401 MPEFI transplant
    "First rule of government funding; Why build one when you can build two at twice the price!"

  5. #5

    Join Date
    Jun 2006
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    '69 AMX 12.60@107 - Ohio, unfortunately (:-P)
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    82waggy, ok, I was asking too, more than telling, since mine is apart again and am wondering about the same things.
    '69 AMX #11,856 BSO/Saddle 343-4V Auto Go-Pak A/C Leather
    http://home.fuse.net/ckthomas/AMXSIG5.jpg

  6. #6

    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Nevada
    Posts
    2
    Thanks guys!

  7. #7
    Sorry AMX69, did not mean to come off argumentative.

    I've been following your cam saga too. Not sure what caused your problem other than maybe the new lifters on a used cam (I'm assuming you lubed everything up well at assembly).

    We use molly paste on lobes, lifter bottoms, and dizzy drive gears at the race engine shop I've been moonlighting at. Torco or Royal Purple assy lube on bearings, valve stems and tips, pushrod ends, etc. Then add a pint of EOS along with a load of Castrol GTX or Delo 10w30 for break in. Been lucky so far I'm told.

    As far as all the AMC oiling mods that have been thrown around, I'm not sold on a lot of them, but it depends on the application. If running over 4000rpm for extended periods, or even higher rpm drag racing, I might look at restricting flow to the top and improving drainback. For daily drivers, I think slowing flow over the valvetrain is a mistake - Increased pan capacity will take care of most potential problems, especially for off angle 4wheelin stuff.

    Just an FYI, Crower (as one example) makes a cam saver lifter that adds an oil port on the bottom for direct oiling of the lobes. I have nor experience with them myself but might be worth checking into.
    Bare Tub Restoring 69 BBB Javelin SST 390 Go/Mod Pak
    Frame Off Restoring 82 Wagoneer with 401 MPEFI transplant
    "First rule of government funding; Why build one when you can build two at twice the price!"

  8. #8

    Join Date
    Jun 2006
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    '69 AMX 12.60@107 - Ohio, unfortunately (:-P)
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    It's cool. No offense. My hands on experience is limited.
    Would like to get a job at an engine shop and change that.
    Been talkin' to a local shop about a job.
    Was gonna criuse the car over there and let'em drive it.

    But that "plan" got "wiped out" with the lobe
    '69 AMX #11,856 BSO/Saddle 343-4V Auto Go-Pak A/C Leather
    http://home.fuse.net/ckthomas/AMXSIG5.jpg

  9. #9
    Thank you from BT ULTIMUS MAXIMUS STATUS jeepsr4ever's Avatar
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    Dec 2002
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    82Waggy X2

    In addition if your plan changes and your RPM or horsepower requirements change then some other mods should be considered.
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  10. #10
    Thank you from BT Master Mechanic
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by 82Waggy
    Deep sump pan and pickup tube is all that you need.

    Just say no to the valley bypass line.
    Why No?
    Jerry

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