Ive changed my oil pan gasket 3 times, it appears its leaking out the rear main seal, It also appears like the bolts where over tightened, they arent exactly flush with the surface. Is there any easy way to fix it, is the bulltear custom oil pan worth the extra cost, I had to cut my motor mount slightly to take the oil pan out is the bulltear oil pan any bigger around the bolting area? Thanks!
Every time I do an engine, I make sure the oil pan and valve cover gasket surfaces are flat. You can just use 2 hammers, one with a head small enough to fit inside the flange, and tap the area around the bolt holes flat. I use solid flat steel stock on the edge of the workbench. The leaks it prevents is definitely worth the time spent.
Bob
tufcj
1969 AMX
1967 Rambler Rogue
If you need a tool and don't buy it...
you'll eventually pay for it...
and not have it.
Henry Ford
Was the block's crank main bearings align honed ?
Have read Align Honing can cause rear main seal leakage.
'69 AMX #11,856 BSO/Saddle 343-4V Auto Go-Pak A/C Leather
http://home.fuse.net/ckthomas/AMXSIG5.jpg
I can get a replacement Oil Pan from Murrays which is a Trans-Dapt Oil Pan; Oem, I really was glad it wasnt the crown one. I let you know how this one turns out
Trans-dapt - crown same mfg IIRC
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I was thinking the same thing. One manufacturer, sold under several different labels.
What did Murray's get for a pan? You could have purchased one here at Bulltear's E-store. http://www.bulltear.com/catalog/inde...sort=2a&page=3
(shameless plug)
Bob
tufcj
1969 AMX
1967 Rambler Rogue
If you need a tool and don't buy it...
you'll eventually pay for it...
and not have it.
Henry Ford
It will end up coming to about $75 cause I have a 15% coupon, havent bought one yet though
whats difference between the yellow zinc oil pan compared to the stock
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