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Oil pressure = 0 - Page 2
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Thread: Oil pressure = 0

  1. #11

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    Quote Originally Posted by jeepsr4ever
    Dan a nice little camshaft like a Summit K8600 (Cam and lifter kit) will make you VERY PROUD of the power you will get out of it and the performer intake and carb will work excellent.
    What kind of ballpark hp/tq are we talking? I'll be keeping my propane setup, btw.

    How much fun would it be to build a 401 with about 10:1? Completely possible with propane.

  2. #12
    Thank you from BT ULTIMUS MAXIMUS STATUS jeepsr4ever's Avatar
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    Up near 400ftlbs of torque and about 350hp
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  3. #13

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    Hmmm. That's darn near drool-orific. I'm running a TF999 now. Would I need anything else to complete the swap?

  4. #14

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    Update:

    I talked to the local car wizard this morning, and I'm quite happy (and disturbed) at the same time....

    It was 3 quarts low. The PO yanked the dipstick, so I had no way to tell if it had sufficient oil. I do have an oil pressure gauge, but that's not exactly a fool proof method (obviously).

    What troubles me is that it doesn't leak more than a few drips in the course of two weeks or more. It does have some white smoke on startup and when climbing the steep stuff. BUT, this thing sure shouldn't be burning 3 quarts. It's only had 7 days of trail riding since we pulled the pan and replaced the rear main. The PO did say that he thought it needed valve seals. How miserable of a job is this?

  5. #15
    Thank you from BT ULTIMUS MAXIMUS STATUS tufcj's Avatar
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    With an air chuck to pressurize the cylinder, and the proper tool to remove the valve spring, seals can be changed with the head on the vehicle. The factory "umbrella" seals generally harden and crack at 70-80K miles.

    If it's got than many miles, and unknown care, you might be just as well off to pull the heads off and have them completely redone, including some positive valve seals.

    If it's a 360, the same heads can be swapped onto a 401 in the future.

    Bob
    tufcj
    1969 AMX
    1967 Rambler Rogue

    If you need a tool and don't buy it...
    you'll eventually pay for it...
    and not have it.
    Henry Ford

  6. #16

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    What kind of $ are you talking about to have the heads thoroughly checked and to have the valves redone?

  7. #17
    Thank you from BT ULTIMUS MAXIMUS STATUS tufcj's Avatar
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    Probably $200-300 a pair to start for a OE valve job and surfacing. Add some if valves, guides, or springs need replacement. Add more if you want 3 angle cuts, hardened seats, and any port or gasket matching.

    My 291s on my AMX ran a little over $600 with hardened seats, 3 angle cuts, polishing/unshrouding and some pocket porting. I supplied them with stainless valves, new springs, retainers, and valve locks (which cost about another $300).

    You can go as mild or wild as you want, you just need to shake the money tree a bit.


    Bob
    tufcj
    1969 AMX
    1967 Rambler Rogue

    If you need a tool and don't buy it...
    you'll eventually pay for it...
    and not have it.
    Henry Ford

  8. #18

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    I'd be happy with just a resurfacing and hardened seats (running propane). The plan would be to pull them when I finally find a 401.

  9. #19
    Bulltear forum member Swabie
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    you sure didn't have to search reall hard for that 401. Guess its where you live. I am still looking for one. Hey just wondering how much is it going to run you?
    Wade

    1980 Jeep CJ-7
    T-176
    Dana 300
    AMC 360
    Model 20
    Model 30

  10. #20

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    Quote Originally Posted by wdwrlw
    you sure didn't have to search reall hard for that 401. Guess its where you live. I am still looking for one. Hey just wondering how much is it going to run you?
    Never did find a 401. A friend of mine has a good running 360 for $150. Hard to argue with that. I'll just stick with a 360, just for economics.

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