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Crank Key - Page 2
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Thread: Crank Key

  1. #11

  2. #12
    Use a gear puller
    Bare Tub Restoring 69 BBB Javelin SST 390 Go/Mod Pak
    Frame Off Restoring 82 Wagoneer with 401 MPEFI transplant
    "First rule of government funding; Why build one when you can build two at twice the price!"

  3. #13
    Thank you from BT Tech Master Bulltear Forum
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    put a big pair of channel lock pliars around the crank snout so that the teeth catch the key but be sure to not gouge the snout and get someone else to hit the gear in the right direction with a brass drift or piece of wood. If it dont work try to get the key to come out. with it being so short you might be able to catch the end of it and get it to come out. GOOD LUCK with it

  4. #14
    Thank you from BT ULTIMUS MAXIMUS STATUS
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    I did mine the same way as ironman is suggesting and it worked well. Again, just make sure not to gouge.

  5. #15

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    Bestest, safest, and easiest way would be to get one of those great crank turning nuts MC makes. See the E-Store.



    http://www.bulltear.com/catalog/prod...roducts_id=122

    You could use that to hold the crank with a big wrench while you "bump" the gear with a hammer and block of wood.

    The nut is a great tool to have anyhow. It was invaluable to me when I was degreeing the cam, and it also worked great to tap the tight Roll Master timing gear on.

  6. #16
    Man, don't beat on the gear or grab the crank with channel locks!



    Go rent a gear puller from an auto parts store - usually fully refunded upon return.
    Bare Tub Restoring 69 BBB Javelin SST 390 Go/Mod Pak
    Frame Off Restoring 82 Wagoneer with 401 MPEFI transplant
    "First rule of government funding; Why build one when you can build two at twice the price!"

  7. #17

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    Yes, I know there are specific instructions with the Roll Master timing set that caution against hitting against anything but the hub when seating the gear. I'd be very careful of where and how hard you hit on the gear. Probably would be best to just use a puller on it.

  8. #18
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    I think he was saying that the gear has turned some so that the slot for the key doesn't exactly line up with the key and the gear is stuck that way. a puller will only pull the gear tighter onto the key. It has to be turned so that the slot lines up with the key so it can come off

  9. #19

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    Quote Originally Posted by ironman_gq
    I think he was saying that the gear has turned some so that the slot for the key doesn't exactly line up with the key and the gear is stuck that way. a puller will only pull the gear tighter onto the key. It has to be turned so that the slot lines up with the key so it can come off
    Yes, I understand about the gear having turned out of alignment with the keyway, but if the key has made new indentations off the side of the keyway like it appears in the pics, it should still pull straight off, albeit with some difficulty I'm sure. It would be good to get the key back in the keyway, but I'm just not sure how much pounding the timing gear will take.

  10. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1980_Cj7
    Bestest, safest, and easiest way would be to get one of those great crank turning nuts MC makes. See the E-Store.

    You could use that to hold the crank with a big wrench while you "bump" the gear with a hammer and block of wood.

    The nut is a great tool to have anyhow. It was invaluable to me when I was degreeing the cam, and it also worked great to tap the tight Roll Master timing gear on.
    Yup would be great - but I don't have enough of the woodrift key sticking out - that's the problem!!!! And that's also the other problem - tight Rollmaster gears
    " “It is said that men go mad in herds, and only come to their senses slowly, and one by one.." -Charles MacKay
    "'The trouble with our liberal friends is not that they're ignorant; it's just that they know so much that isn't so.' "
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