Crank Key

[Mudrat]

That looks like a Chevy key there Pat

If so, it's way to short!!!

Got most of the front end back together today =D> The new key fits TIGHT, but looks like the slippage was about 15* between the crank gear and harmonic balancer!!!!
so reassembly continues and hopefully wil correct the timining issue - if not, I'm into a dizzy

[Mudrat]

Well, I'm reassembled --- mostly. Still need to put the RAD & fenders back on

Now I don't think this one will slip and slide
New key on the left - - old key on the right (yes it's in there!!)



OLD KEY




NEW KEY

[ironman_gq]

drill a small hole in one end of the key and tap it for a machine screw thread the screw in and either pull on the screw or keep screwing until the screw pushes the key out of the slot. Best way I can think of to do it. It's just like turning the key into a puller to pull itself out. just make sure not to drill too deep and get into the crank!

[Mudrat]

drill a small hole in one end of the key and tap it for a machine screw thread the screw in and either pull on the screw or keep screwing until the screw pushes the key out of the slot. Best way I can think of to do it. It's just like turning the key into a puller to pull itself out. just make sure not to drill too deep and get into the crank!

Didn't think of that, good idea

I'll give it a go next time I run into this problem again. For now the heat and drift punch did the deed and the new key and sprocket is assembled, covers on, and I just need to finish putting the front end together - never enough time in a day.

[fuzz401]

dam chevy's

[Mudrat]

Well the new key is in, the gears are lined up, the engine is reassembled, RAD is reconnected and I still have 50* for timing

I did notice my dizzy was hard to turn by hand and I can't get the vacuum motor to suck the ADV plate. Replaced the vacuum motor - still won't move - so it's time to replace the frigg'n thing and see if THAT's the problem. And I did re-read the vacuum porting article again - I'm at 50* (initial) @750 RPM without vacuum !! (thanks again Jedi Master AMX69PHATTY)

Which creates more questions ...
I see MC added an HEI distributor on Oct 9 for $150. E-Bay has the 'Dragon Fire' billit dizzy for (buy it now) @ $170 --- Any other sugestions?

Q1 - with the one wire hook up - what does that do to the ignition module that fires the old stick???

[1980_Cj7]

50¬?, WOW! Something sure ain't right.

Are you sure your timing marks are correct? Did you verify that when the marks are on TDC, the number one piston is actually at TDC? And your timing light is on number one, right?

This isn't meant to insult you or anything. I know more than one person that got the banks mixed up and was thinking number 2 was number one. Happens to the best of us.

[ironman_gq]

Gets rid of the old Ignition box entirely. you just run the one wire right to the dizzy and start her up.
Are you sure that your balncer didnt shift on itself. I've hearn of the outer ring with the timing mark spinning on the central hub part. All that holds them together is a strip of rubber from what Ive seen

[Mudrat]

50¬?, WOW! Something sure ain't right.

Are you sure your timing marks are correct? Did you verify that when the marks are on TDC, the number one piston is actually at TDC? And your timing light is on number one, right?

This isn't meant to insult you or anything. I know more than one person that got the banks mixed up and was thinking number 2 was number one. Happens to the best of us.

No problem – even I’M thinking I’M stupid or something!!
Timing marks are on a new nickel cover from Bulltear
Balancer doesn’t look like it’s spun, no puching in the rubber and no rotation (according to the paint), and #1 is the front DR side cylinder.
Firing order has been checked at least 8 times with the book (TSM, Haynes and Clymers). Checked for vacuum leaks and have all new hoses.

50* and not getting it close to time is what prompted me to tear down the front end where I found the wrong woodriff key (see previous pix) and the crank was rotated about 3* in relation to the cam from the crank gear over riding the key (3* crank is 6* cam).
Set #1 piston (front driver’s side ) to TDC and the valves to closed, lined up the "dots" on the timing chain sprokets and installed the new key and a double roller timing chain and sprockets. Butt load of assembly lube on the gears and chain, and the cam / dizzy drive gears. Set the rotor to #1 on the cap lined up the oil pump drive and installed the dizzy - this is where I found it turned kinda hard - not as easy as I think it should. But when I went to set timing, with no vacuum, I'm at 50* at 750 RPM (with vacuum I'm at ~35*). I'm REALLY not understanding this one - never had this problem before.
I'm thinking I really screwed up when I rebuilt the dizzy last year (yes, it's been that long!! ), but the motor runs at that amount of advance and doesn't seem to over heat any more? This is where it was when I broke in the cam as well??

[1980_Cj7]

So with the vacuum hooked up, you are getting less advance? That is really weird. You should be getting more shouldn't you? Do you have another disributor you could swap in just to see if that makes any differnce?

When you brought No. 1 up to TDC, did you look to see if the timing marks were lined up? Maybe that balancer did slip.