Toyota PU springs under a CJ??

[northplainsdrifter]

I've been wanting to change things around under my 74 CJ, 30 front, 44 rear. I found some 7" Skyjacker springs off a 82 Yota and was wondering if they might be a good choice. I know they are longer, which I want, other than that I don't really know how they would work. Fabbing them in is not a problem, I just don't know if these would be worth my time.

Any thoughts?

[tufcj]

I do know that Toyota front leaf springs have 2 different arches, there is a definite left and right because of the difference in the position of the spring pad on the welded front axle tube of the Toyota.

On your 74, all the springs are 2" wide, I believe the Toyota's are 2.5", so you'll need to fab hangers and shackle mounts. They are longer, so you'll need to stretch the frame on both ends.

7" lift springs are going to have a healthy arch. More arch = less flex. You could get nearly the same lift from a spring-over-axle (SOA, about 6 to 6.5"), and it would probably be less work and flex better.

Bob
tufcj

[northplainsdrifter]

I've been thinking about SOA too, I'm going to be putting 36's under soon. I just don't know how to set up the steering without going to a HI Steer. Funds are low but not the creativity!

I'm just trying to get a game plan together so I can do it right the first time.

[tufcj]

High steer isn't too difficult. There are a couple of companies that sell the arms for about $125. Pick up a set of late 70s (I think mine are 77) Wagoneer or Chevy flat top knuckles, and use cut down Wagoneer tie rod and drag link. Dana 44 knuckles will fit your Dana 30 axle.

Here's mine (Dana 44 front):



Bob
tufcj

[northplainsdrifter]

Very nice!

Thanks for the input. Looks like I'll be staying with CJ springs for now.

[tufcj]

When I finished the front with the high steer, one of my 'wheeling buddies looked at it and said "Are you going to paint a target on the diff cover now, or later?" That's when I added the rock slider.

Bob
tufcj

[northplainsdrifter]

Are those narrow track axles? And what size tires are you running? I was also concerned about being to narrow with the SOA.

[tufcj]

My axles are about 1" wider than widetrack Jeep, it's just the way it worked out.

I wanted to use available parts where I could, so I started with a Dana 44HD housing out of a 3/4 ton Chevy pickup, since it was already SOA (freebie from a friend). It has 1/2" wall tubes. I cut the short side of the housing to fit a factory Wagoneer short axle, then cut the long side so it would sit square under the vehicle. Ended up about 4" off the short side and 8" from the long side. I had to have the long axle custom cut, but the rest is home made. I had to cut about 6 degrees into the passenger (cast) spring plate to get the pinion angle right, then weld the inner knuckles after caster/camber was set with a digital level. Everything else is Wagoneer except I used Ford 1/2 ton rotors to keep the 5 on 5.5 lug pattern, and the bonus is much stronger internal locking hubs.

I'm running 37" Goodyear MT/Rs, with 4.27 gears and full Detroit's in both axles. The 4.27s aren't quite enough for 37s, I have 4.88s on the shelf waiting to go in.

I have the SOA on 1.5" lift YJ springs (about 7"), a 1" body lift, and I cut the fenders for TJ flares. The TJ flares give about 1 1/2" extra clearance in the rear, about 2 1/2" in the front. I did the TJ flares while I still had 35s on it, and they made the tires look small. With the 37s and TJ flares, I can still stuff the tires to the bump stops with no rub.

Side view:



Bob
tufcj

[northplainsdrifter]

Very sweet!

I'm running 33's now. I have a little rub when I bolt the paddles on, that's one reason for going SOA. I know when I get the 36's I'll have clearence issues.


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