Just curious. We have 4 that are drivers - 76 Waggy, 77 Waggy, 77 J20 & 88 GW. One running 401 in a 76 Cherokee parts rig is waiting transplant to a 72 J4000 Camper Special.
Just curious. We have 4 that are drivers - 76 Waggy, 77 Waggy, 77 J20 & 88 GW. One running 401 in a 76 Cherokee parts rig is waiting transplant to a 72 J4000 Camper Special.
Still got it.
James Belcher, Jr.
Carolina Trailblazers PR Man
86 CJ 7 401 TF 999 D300
81 CJ 7 360 T 176 D300
85 J20 401 727
To many others to list
Still have my '76 401 (modified) powered J10...although it is currently waiting for me to transplant a NP205 and 14 bolt rear end.
If this new part can't break....what old part will??
New to this forum and Jeeps as of this week. I just picked up a slightly worn and battered '74 Cherokee with a 401 body tag (also 5600#GVW, 2dr). I got it to tow my 1972 Glastron. The guy said it was a 360. The side of the block says 401. It kind of looks original, but I'll figure that out later. Originally, I just wanted to replace the bad radiator, but now I'm diving in deeper.
When I got this thing home a few days ago, it looked pretty good, but since then, the rear main seal is leaking a little bit. So I was going to change it today, but wanted to check the compression before I bothered. Last night I pulled the plugs and started to check the compression. Evidently, I forgot how to do it, but that's not the problem. Number 2 cyl spark plug was covered in oil or gas and not running like the other cylinders. I saw no compression on #2 either. I put pressure in there and it wasn't leaking through the valves. I took off the valve cover and found a broken intake push rod. I knew it was running one cylinder off at idle and it did sound like one clanking set of rockers, which I think is on the other side of the engine still. Can these loose and worn rockers have bound the push rod causing it to break?
So, I'm trying to figure out how much life is left in this motor - mileage unknown. I'm very tempted to change the rockers and push rods. I need to change that main seal and look at the cylinders and main bearing while I'm in there.
My question to anyone is: is there a step by step somewhere on changing over to Chevy rockers? I keep reading about milling the stud bosses, but everybody keeps talking about roller rockers. Can I just screw in the 3/8" studs and factory Chevy stamped rockers, with "x" length push rods instead of the factory parts? I'm not sure of this motors future, I want to delay any rebuild. If the Chevy parts add up to less than the AMC parts and I can make them adjustable at the same time, I want to do that.
I bought this for $700 and it ran fair enough, shifted good and stopped good. It has very little rust in the body too. There is some hood and fender damage. I do want it running asap and "fine tune" it later.
Welcome to the forum. I have to ask would you use Ford rockers on a Chevy or the other way around? If you do and it works then OK but not on an AMC. AMC rockers on an AMC! If you do go for rollers watch out as some say they work with ford & AMC but they do not. The rocker hits the retainer and pops the keepers out and then you know what happens!
If using it for towing the stock set up is good no need to spend $$ when not needed. Now if you do want to go roller Harland Sharp makes a bolt on set to replace the bridge set up the head has now. Up till this bolt on set you would need to run push rod guide plates and that’s why the milling of the mounting studs.
It could be the cam has a flat lobe and the rod fell out? It sounds like you are going to tear down the motor for a look see? If so you may want to throw a RV cam in it with new timing chain replace rings, bearings seals as needed, stock rockers & push rods and never worry about it again.
If you do a new cam make sure you run “break in oil” or Bulltear’s oil because of the zink that is needed.
Dave ----
75 GremlinX v8 64k
76 GremlinX i6 (15yr sons)
70 Javelin MD 390/4sp (360 now)
70 Javelin 1/4 Drag car 360/auto best time 12.88...best speed 103.64 mph...best 60' 1.835 no tuning
check the rest of the cylinders and make sure the rest of the valve train is in good shape including the cam and timing set you can get a look at the pistons and cylinders from the bottom when you replace the main seal. watch out for cracked skirts and scored cylinders. crank the motor over by hand so you can look at everything. you might even be able to see the cam from underneath to check for bad lobes or damage.
Yes, I would, if there was and improvement and cost less at the same time. Besides, I'm new to this AMC thing - I have no loyalty, but I've heard rumors that AMC may have done this themselves here and there.Originally Posted by FuzzFace2
...About a flat lobe, is it common for this on the front lobes? I still have to take it apart to find the rest of the push rod, but I would tend to think that the oil pressure is higher on the front of the engine and those parts would have the least wear. I'm assuming the oil pump is up front. Well, this is all pointless until I inspect. Of course, I could have just bought a set of rockers and rods for one cylinder and checked everything after installation!!!
If it makes you feel better, I have a high probability of replacing all of the rockers/parts and push rods with the AMC parts. I just need to check out the inside of the engine before I spend the money on that stuff.
One
as you take things apart make sure you keep everything marked so when you put it back together nothing has been
left out or put back in the wrong place.
note: do not attempt to use chrysler parts on an AMC . they won't work. use only the AMC or good aftermarket parts
specifically for the AMC V-8
83 eagle (r.i.p.)
85 gl1200 gold wing LTD pilot
1999 gl1500C valkyrie(plain gold wing)
1994 jeep grand cherokee limited pilot
McDonnell Douglas c-17 mechanic
corrupting people since 1962
On the “other make” rockers if it added power and was cheaper we all would be doing it ;)Yes, I would, if there was and improvement and cost less at the same time. Besides, I'm new to this AMC thing - I have no loyalty, but I've heard rumors that AMC may have done this themselves here and there.
...About a flat lobe, is it common for this on the front lobes? I still have to take it apart to find the rest of the push rod, but I would tend to think that the oil pressure is higher on the front of the engine and those parts would have the least wear. I'm assuming the oil pump is up front. Well, this is all pointless until I inspect. Of course, I could have just bought a set of rockers and rods for one cylinder and checked everything after installation!!!
If it makes you feel better, I have a high probability of replacing all of the rockers/parts and push rods with the AMC parts. I just need to check out the inside of the engine before I spend the money on that stuff.
Some Co’s IIRC say the fords will work but when you start to look at the geometry and action it is not right when matched up to a true AMC roller rocker. Some issues just off the top of my head roller tip not centered on valve tip adding side load to valve/guide, retainer hits on under side of rocker and pop the keepers out then dropped valve, rocker bottoms out on studs.
If you are looking at roller rockers and they use the same part number for AMC and any other make walk away (or run). Harland Sharp makes rollers for AMC 1 of them a bolt on with no machine work needed and none of the part #’s are used for any other make motor. I have not looked into Crane but they may be another just for AMC but you need to check first.
As for the flat lobe it could be any where on the shaft, I pull a race cam out of a 304 and had one in the center that was real bad I did not look at any others it went right in the trash can.
As you know till it’s apart it is going to be hard to tell why the rod fell out & broke.
Dave ----
75 GremlinX v8 64k
76 GremlinX i6 (15yr sons)
70 Javelin MD 390/4sp (360 now)
70 Javelin 1/4 Drag car 360/auto best time 12.88...best speed 103.64 mph...best 60' 1.835 no tuning
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