Newb in need of guidance

[ironman_gq]

I use the empty accessory holes in the head. go from the front of one head to the back of the other head across the motor.

[hoki06]

Its here! Picked it up today along with a NV3550 for the YJ to replace the failing AX-15. Everything went smoothly and thanks Bob for the bolt sizes, you were spot on.




I'd like to verify exactly what year/model this thing came out of. I was told its from a Waggy but not 100% sure because its been sitting around for a while, passed from one person to another for free. I know there are numbers stamped somewhere on the block. Where are they and once I have them how do I use them to look it up? Thanks!

Eric

[tufcj]

Once the valve covers and intake are off, there MIGHT be the last digit or 2 digits of the year cast in the head and on the block in the lifter galley. A "7" could be 77 or 87, so there are a few other things that can tell. It won't make any difference getting parts, 360s are pretty much the same from 74-91, the earlier ones had some differences.

Bob
tufcj

[hoki06]

I'll look for those once I start tearing into it. I did find these numbers on the intake manifold right behind the carb though. They're probably just markings for the manifold itself, not the actual block.

[tufcj]

Yep. That's just the casting # for the manifold. The casting # for the block is on the drivers side bellhousing flange, toward the top. They used the same number for all 360 blocks for many years, so it's not much help.

Bob
tufcj

[hoki06]

So I got a little wrench happy tonight. It started with taking off a valve cover and see how it looks under there. Then I progressed to taking the stuff off the top such as the thermostat housing, distributor, carb and so on.




Then I say to myself, hey I wonder if I can get the intake manifold off.... Well it turns out I could lol





Uh oh..... I'm addicted




But I do have a couple questions after my little adventure tonight. First of all, what is the best way to get the rust off everything? I'm mainly worried about the outside of the block and heads because I'll be getting a new manifold and accessories. Can I do something like an acid dip?

Secondly, what is the procedure for taking the heads off. I'm guessing take the valve spring bolts out then do something with the pushrods?


I found this under the intake manifold







Looks like I'll be getting into this engine build earlier than expected lol

[AMX69PHATTY]

Stop, turn, and run the other way.

There is no known cure and its probably allready too late.

Would there happen to a be a small aluminum tag about 1 inch square attached to one end of one of the valve covers with a single screw ?

If so keep this tag and the special Posi-Drive screw, and what are the numbers on the tag ?

At least a 1974 or newer probably, 4 bolt balancer and bridged rocker heads.
The Ford MotorCraft DuraSpark Distributor also dates it, but not sure what year range, maybe someone else does. Not sure if the DuraSpark Distributors are stamped with a date code the same as the earlier Delco Distributors were. Any numbers stamped on the Distributor housing ? Plan on using the DuraSpark Distributor ?

Engine shop can tank the bare block and heads to clean'em up.

[hoki06]

Would there happen to a be a small aluminum tag about 1 inch square attached to one end of one of the valve covers with a single screw ?

If so keep this tag and the special Posi-Drive screw, and what are the numbers on the tag ?

I don't think so but I'll check again tomorrow. I think I remember seeing where it should be but it wasn't there.

At least a 1974 or newer probably, 4 bolt balancer and bridged rocker heads.
The Ford MotorCraft DuraSpark Distributor also dates it, but not sure what year range, maybe someone else does. Not sure if the DuraSpark Distributors are stamped with a date code the same as the earlier Delco Distributors were. Any numbers stamped on the Distributor housing ? Plan on using the DuraSpark Distributor ?

I can check for stampings on the distributor and housing tomorrow. I have no idea what distributor I'll use yet. Right now I'm just doing some reverse engineering by tearing it down and learning how things go together/come apart. I know I can tackle the mechanical side of things, just need to learn the rest like choosing cams, pistons, and all that other junk.

[tufcj]

It's probably a 1984 block. There might also be a number on the heads in the same position as the casting number, on the opposite end.

To remove the heads, the rockers come off first. Remove the bridges with both valves closed, then rotate the engine to close other valves. If you remove a bridge with a valve open, the bridge can snap (from experience here).

Once the rockers are off, remove the head bolts. A pry bar in one of the intake ports and a tug will pop it off. Turn the engine on the stand so the head is level.

It looks very clean inside, looks like you have a great builder.

If you have access to a pressure washer, you could go to a hardware store and get a gallon of muratic acid. Put it on with a spray bottle, let sit 5-10 minutes, then pressure wash off. It will remove all the surface rust. BE SURE TO WEAR EYE AND BODY PROTECTION. It can cause nasty burns.

Bob
tufcj

[hoki06]

What do I use to turn the motor to open and close the valves? I think I've seen people use a breaker bar or something but where do I attach it?