not sure but are BOTH the small hole pushrods and bearings neaded? I was under the impression that it was either one or the other. Hopefully MC will chime in
not sure but are BOTH the small hole pushrods and bearings neaded? I was under the impression that it was either one or the other. Hopefully MC will chime in
If they are both not needed which would y'all recommend, the smaller hole push rods or the bearings?
Also, I was thinking with my Jeep, since it is geared so low and the Jeep the Jeep is usually running at rpm's above idle, would I benefit from running an edelbrock air gap intake over the performer intake? Or should I just stick with the performer? Would there be much of a notable difference?
One another side note, I got the engine to the machine shop to begin some of the machining work. The cylinder walls do not have any ridge on them at all so I'm hoping they will just need hone the walls so I can still be at standard bore to allow plenty of room for a future rebuild.
Jeepsr4ever, yep the body is and has always been completely rust free! My family has owned the Jeep since 1990 when we bought it with 33K miles where it was used primarily to drive around our trails on our ground in the sandhills, haul firewood, etc., it rarely left 4-Low and was garaged every night. I did the frame off build about 7 years ago when the CJ8 had 44K miles. And now it has just over 48K. It spends it winters in a heated warehouse and comes out only during nice weather! But when it is nice I drive it as often as I can! Lots of sentimental value with this Jeep since we have had it since I was four years old.
If you can I would go with the bearings cause it opens up the options for different pushrods if you ever decide to do anything with the heads or mill anything.
Ironman, thanks for the reply. I will be going with the cam bearings. I have a question about the rocker arm studs. I am having the heads machined for the 7/16-14" base and milled down 0.375". Is there any benefit to running rocker arm studs with the upper portion 7/16" or should I run the 3/8". I have searched on summit racing for rocker arm studs and there are many different choices (brand, length, etc.) Which ones do you guys prefer? I plan to run Harland Sharp roller rockers with the 1.6:1 ratio. For my build would the 1.7:1 rockers benefit me at all? Thanks for the help.
If you use 1.7's you need to make sure you wont have any coil bind in the valvesprings and make sure you have clearance for the valves so they wont hit a piston
I believe I will just be sticking with the 1.6:1 roller rockers. Would I be better off running rocker arm studs with 7/16" or 3/8" upper portions. Will the 7/16" studs be notably stonger? I am having the heads drilled to accept the 7/16-20" studs and machined down .375". What is the effective stud length you have all gone with to allow proper set up and adjustment of the rocker arms with the .375" machining? One more quick question: are the non -small holed push rods listed on the bulltear site hardened for use with guide plates?
On the '70 heads with no guideplates and Harland Sharp 1.6 ratio 7/16 stud rockers I used ARP #100-7101 for sbf. If buying new Roller Rockers and Rocker Studs, and have not bought them yet, why not go ahead and get the bigger 7/16 studs and matching rockers ? As "insurance" ? Wouldn't think the cost difference between 3/8 studs & rockers and 7/16 studs & rockers would be that much. If cost difference is a lot, then it would be a tougher decision. Larger studs just provide higher valve train stability when using beefier springs and more radical cams and higher rpm's. Since I was buying both new anyways, I went ahead and bought the 7/16, but they were used in original screw in stud type heads, so I'm not sure what specs are needed for modified bridged rocker heads, overall length, bottom thread length, length above hex, and top end threaded portion length. Studs do gotta be right so the lifters can be properly preloaded without running out of thread and the poly-lok bottoming out and running out of adjustment (studs too long), or not enough thread engagement of poly-lok on stud (studs too short). Stud length also effects where the socket head jam screw ends up sitting in the top of the poly-lok.
'69 AMX #11,856 BSO/Saddle 343-4V Auto Go-Pak A/C Leather
http://home.fuse.net/ckthomas/AMXSIG5.jpg
I used the 7/16" 1.7 Harland Roller Rockers on my heads... The machine shop figured it all for me... They insured proper geometry etc. I didn't have the studs for the 1.7 Rollers but the shop had the ones I needed... I get back to land today... I can look at my reciepts for some part numbers etc etc. With my set-up there is no binding etc... After the shop milled the bosses (roughly the thickness of the stud nut & guide plate added together)... they drilled and tapped the bosses and when they did they went into the water jacket... Not an issue (IMO) as everything was sealed and I have been running it like that for over 2 years, no leaks etc.
Hey, yeah if you could get me some part numbers and possibly some of the specs that would be great!!!
Its been a while but I'm finally getting back to working on the 401. I'm getting ready to select the pistons to use in the engine. I am wanting to keep the compression ratio around 9.5:1. The block will be bored .030 over. Does anyone have any piston recommendations that will keep me at that compression ratio? I was looking at the KB354-030 but I have heard these require a bushing in th wrist pin. Would I be better off with forged pistons or Hypereutectic aluminum? Also, what rings should I choose, cast iron or moly? And where is a good source to buy these rings from? Thanks for all the help!
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