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Shackle reversal & Steering mount
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Thread: Shackle reversal & Steering mount

  1. #1
    Thank you from BT Junior wrench of the Forum
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    Shackle reversal & Steering mount

    The last time I was out I broke the steeing box off the frame of my 74 CJ5. The 72-75 CJ's have a cast mount that is sandwiched between the frame rails. It only utilizes three of the four bolts on the steering box, not very strong. After I put the 35's on it wasn't strong enough, should've had a brace. I bought a after market brace for a 76 & up which is different but I should be able to make it work. At the same time I'm going to do a shackle reversal so I can hopefully get this thing to drive better down the road. It should be a interesting project as I have primitve tools, welder, some air tools and a sawzall. And the interweb for a some helpful hints. I'm not buying a SRS kit.

    For the SRS I'm taking the spring mounts from the back and putting them up front. I'm moving the spring mounts forward an 1" or so to clear the new steering mount. This is changing the pitch of the 3rd member and moving the axle forward which should keep it from hitting the inner fender wells. The article I read said I might have to put some shims in to adjust the driveline angle.

    I was wondering if anyone else has done this type of SRS? Any hints would be appreciated. I will post some pics of my progress later.

  2. #2
    Thank you from BT ULTIMUS MAXIMUS STATUS tufcj's Avatar
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    I've done it twice on my CJ. The first kit I bought was from Warrior Products. Their kit didn't move the axle forward (which is needed), and it hung the shackles below the frame, which made them terrible rock catchers. It also created about 1.5" of lift, which had to be compensated for with longer shackles in the rear.
    It also rotated the pinion down, which affects the driveshaft, but more so the caster angle, which will make the Jeep wander as it approaches 0.

    When I did my SOA, I also went to YJ (2.5" wide) front springs, so I bought a kit from M.O.R.E. Their kit moved the front axle forward about 1.5" and mounts the shackle thru the frame, so it doesn't create any lift, and they don't catch rocks. Their un-welded kit was reasonable, around $200.

    You need to move the axle forward because once the shackle is reversed, the axle moves back as the spring flattens. Definitely check the travel on your front driveshaft. Once my SOA and reversal were done, the factory slip wasn't long enough. If I made it long enough, it would bottom when the suspension compressed. If I made it short enough not to bottom, it would pull apart when the suspension drooped. My Jeep would go over 1100 on a 20* ramp.

    Bob
    tufcj
    1969 AMX
    1967 Rambler Rogue

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  3. #3
    Thank you from BT Junior wrench of the Forum
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    I'm pretty sure my driveline won't work the way it is. After I put in the T-18 it was barely long enough. Might try and make a square tubed driveline. A few of my friends have made them and they work rather well.

  4. #4
    Thank you from BT Junior wrench of the Forum
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    Make sure you check where the centering pin is located in the springs. When I did my shackel reversal I had to move the axle forward to keep the axle in the center of the wheel well. The pin in the leaf spring was not in the center. The leafs where longer on one side when measured from the pin to the center of the bushings.

  5. #5
    Thank you from BT Junior wrench of the Forum
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    Got alot more done this weekend. Started putting things back together. I ended up moving the axle 2 1/2" forward, right to the end of the frame. Since the axle will swing backwards now, I was afraid it would start hitting the rear of the fender so I moved it. I read I might have castor problems as the differential is alot more flat. I can only shim it a small amount as the tie rod will hit the springs. We'll see what happens when I start driving it. I'm going to build a new driveline and was seriously thinking about making a square tube one since I don't use 4WD on the street.

    I'll weld it all up once I'm sure it going to work right.






  6. #6
    Thank you from BT ULTIMUS MAXIMUS STATUS tufcj's Avatar
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    These are the MORE brackets. Think about a "high steer" setup. The arms are from Tri-County Gear.



    Here's the shackle mount in the back. Some 1" ID tubing welded thru the frame.



    Bob
    tufcj
    1969 AMX
    1967 Rambler Rogue

    If you need a tool and don't buy it...
    you'll eventually pay for it...
    and not have it.
    Henry Ford


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  7. #7
    Thank you from BT Junior wrench of the Forum
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    I've seen that type of setup before and I really like it! I eventually want to go with stock YJ springs and a SOA with that type of shackle setup, but funds are low and this was something I could do with my current setup. I'll just have to live with what I got right now. I might have to put some blocks under the front spring hangar to get a better pinion angle. I'll see how it works before I weld it all up!

  8. #8
    Thank you from BT Junior wrench of the Forum
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    If you rotate the axle to get a better pinion angle, you will through off the caster(make it more negative) and it will wander going down the road.

  9. #9
    Thank you from BT Junior wrench of the Forum
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    I worked on it all last weekend and only ran into one problem. It's the only thing I didn't check while fabbing things up. Couldn't get the tierod to connect to the pitman arm because the draglink was in the way. When I moved the axle 2 1/2" forward to the end of the frame and the steering box back about an inch it made the rods cross each other. Damn it! The easy way was to switch the rods around. I had to adjust the toe in/out but it made the steering alot more responsive, probably not a good thing. This is not permanent, just a temporary thing till I can figure the best way to change it. Gofoeit Inc makes a kit to move the rods on top of the knuckles, might do that. http://www.goferitoffroad.com/products.htm

    I did take it for a spin and I'm really happy with the SRS! It drove straight down the road! No more two hands and white knuckle trying to keep it straight!

    Here's a few pics. I still have to weld everything up.






  10. #10
    Thank you from BT ULTIMUS MAXIMUS STATUS tufcj's Avatar
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    I didn't think of that. When I did the SOA/reversal on mine, I tried the tie rod/drag link in the stock position with a dropped pitman and they did interfere. That's why I went to the high steer. I did it using shortened Wagoneer parts (solid steel) instead of the stock CJ stuff (hollow tube).

    I think the way yours is now, the tie rod will hit the pitman when it flexes, so no 4-wheeling until it's fixed.

    Bob
    tufcj
    1969 AMX
    1967 Rambler Rogue

    If you need a tool and don't buy it...
    you'll eventually pay for it...
    and not have it.
    Henry Ford


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