Frustrated :oops:

[Mudrat]

OK,
So I go to roll the CJ outta the shop, and it won't move

Found the right front 'locked up'. Jacked it up, tire won't roll, removed the tire and put a 4' prybar on it, won't move. Pulled the hub assy apart and found the inner bearing was "josayed". Guess that explains the pull to the right Or in military parlance it's AFU!! As in the inner bearing came apart and I scooped the rollers out with the grease

So, now I'm looking for parts for a Dana-44 that I thought was from a Waggy, but the numbers don't match the book nor do they match Nygords list of flat top knuckles The Jeep part CD pictures are really blurry (and yes, I'm wearing my glasses ).

So, what I have is:
Pumpkin is a D44, no BOM data on the tubes or webbing???? What's up with that?!?!?!
Knuckles, flat top, High steer (look like a Chevy or FSJ dana 44) And by the way MC, the new Heims look MARVELOUS on that 1.5 DOM I especially like the adjuster
knuckle casting number of 636519 (or C36519?)
Nothing on the DISC brake, or rotor assy (really rusty and need blasting) has a 6 bolt mount to the knuckle.
Shaft is a 19 outter, 29 inner(?) Shouldn't that be 30 or 31???
inner seal 47(2?)71 (rusty and cann't get a clear look)
Inner race LM104910
Inner BRG LM104949 (this is the one I scooped the rollers out of the grease)
Outter BRG LM501(3 OR 9)49-N (BRG is blue from heat and hard to read.
Outter race LM5011310


Any help is appreciated!!

[Mudrat]

Should I also mention the HYANES for 1972-91 manual has been of no help???

[jeepsr4ever]

Those bearings were the same for many many .......many many years. Just ask for a 77 wagoneer...you cant go wrong

[ironman_gq]

bearing numbers are sometimes brand specific and if your parts store has a different brand than what was in there the numbers might not match and their cross reference books arent always complete

[fuzz401]

http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v1...cj%20bearings/

[ironman_gq]

NAPA lists them as a 77 waggy. just leave the prefix off the bearing number so your LM104949 would just be a 104949 NAPA's part number is PLM104949 for the same part. the prefix is usually brand specific

[Mudrat]

All is good info, thanks.
Fuzz, thanks bro!! The list you provided indicates whomever replaced the bearings used a different race for the inner bearing than what the 'SET 38' indicates. Don't know if the difference between a 104910 and a 104911, but this is the bearing that came out in pieces But another page shows it correct for a different year (77RC-83) - so I'm still confused as to the year of this beast (supposed to be an 87 from what the PO told me??)

Now what's the casting number on the knuckle? Is it Chevy or Jeep, or ??? going to replace the ball joints and roller BRGs while I'm in there - just in case

A Google search on the casting number gets me some wierd stuff

I mean really, what would YOU do with "CLARINS Retractable Lip Definer 09 Dusty Rose" on your hub

[tufcj]

If you know it's a Dana 44, they all used the same ball joints, be it Jeep, Chevy, or Dodge. I do think the Fords were different (but so were the knuckles). Just tell them it was a 77 Wagoneer, you'll get the right ball joints.

Make sure you have the correct tool to tighten the top taper. If you don't install it right, the ball joints won't last.

The procedure is to install the bottom ball joint and torque to spec, then install the top taper and torque to 50 ft/lbs, then install the top nut and torque to spec.

Bob
tufcj

[Mudrat]

Thanks Bob,
I looked in the manual about this one. It looks like the ball joints are a press fit (I have a 20 ton shop press) and then just torq it down - bottom first then top - to spec??

[tufcj]

Yep. Ball joints press into the knuckle. You need a piece of tube just slightly smaller than the diameter of the ball joint, you don't want to press directly on the bolt.

The taper in the top hole is threaded, you want to take it out. The new top ball joint should come with one. Here's the procedure my 74 Jeep TSM has.

Set the knuckle in place and torque the lower ball joint to 120 Ft/lbs.

Thread in the upper taper and torque to 50 ft/lbs. This requires a special socket. http://completeoffroad.com/c-59818-h...int-tools.html

Tighten the upper ball joint nut to 100 ft/lbs.

The taper pre-loads the ball joints. If you don't get it right, they won't last long. The $20 socket is worth it.

Bob
tufcj