Warning: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is deprecated, use preg_replace_callback instead in ..../includes/class_bbcode.php on line 2958
shifter for a D20
Results 1 to 9 of 9

Thread: shifter for a D20

  1. #1
    Thank you from BT Senior Wrench of the forum
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    arizona
    Posts
    199

    shifter for a D20

    I have a dana 20 transfer case mated to a T-18. Read somewhere that there is a shifter on the market that will allow you to shift 1/2 a notch "forward" of the 4-low position and disengage the front axle only. Does this ring a bell to any one?

    My other choice is a twin stick which I would rather stay away from if possible.

  2. #2
    Thank you from BT ULTIMUS MAXIMUS STATUS
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Back in VA for a while....
    Posts
    5,822

    Re: shifter for a D20

    Quote Originally Posted by juggernaught
    I have a dana 20 transfer case mated to a T-18. Read somewhere that there is a shifter on the market that will allow you to shift 1/2 a notch "forward" of the 4-low position and disengage the front axle only. Does this ring a bell to any one?

    My other choice is a twin stick which I would rather stay away from if possible.
    Why? Twin sticking is cool!
    2wd front or rear, 2WD Hi/Low, 4wd Hi/Low . . .
    There are kits out there, just Google what your looking for.
    " “It is said that men go mad in herds, and only come to their senses slowly, and one by one.." -Charles MacKay
    "'The trouble with our liberal friends is not that they're ignorant; it's just that they know so much that isn't so.' "
    -Ronald Reagan

    VOTE

  3. #3
    Thank you from BT ULTIMUS MAXIMUS STATUS tufcj's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Watkins, CO
    Posts
    2,864
    +1 on the twin stick. Try it, You'll like it.

    I've got my 300 twin sticked. It gives you 2 additional ranges over the single stick, 2WD low, and front wheel drive low. I use the 2WD low a lot on trails where 4WD isn't needed. With the hubs locked, a quick click of one stick, and you're in 4WD low even when moving.

    Bob
    tufcj
    1969 AMX
    1967 Rambler Rogue

    If you need a tool and don't buy it...
    you'll eventually pay for it...
    and not have it.
    Henry Ford

  4. #4
    Thank you from BT Grease Monkey
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Minnesnowta
    Posts
    151
    There is a little more to properly twin sticking a D20

    Google for the shift rail modification. One of the shift rails require a minor modification or low range rear will like to pop into neutral under heavy load. (ask me how I know this )

    Other wise yes, twin sticking is way cool.
    Its a Jeep Thing --- No one understands!

    "America will never be destroyed from the outside. If we falter and lose our freedoms, it will be because we destroyed ourselves."
    -Abraham Lincoln

  5. #5
    Thank you from BT Tech Master Bulltear Forum
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Middle of the Iron Range MN
    Posts
    1,229
    you can have two wheel low with the stock shifter if it is sufficiently sloppy. Mine you just push the stick till you feel it pop out of 4L but not quite to neutral the rear will still be engaged and you have 2L

  6. #6
    Thank you from BT Master (OIIIO)
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Virginia
    Posts
    771
    can't imagine that you're getting full engagement on the gears... could create stress fractures and ultimately broken gear teeth. I could be wrong, just thinking out a little.

  7. #7
    Thank you from BT Grease Monkey
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Minnesnowta
    Posts
    151
    Full Dana 20 Manual

    http://www.azbronco.com/dana20.htm

    Pic of factory rail assembly



    Pic of the D20 Shift Rail Mod



    The grinding for the interlock pills is only required if you use the pills to keep you from shifting front low/rear high or vice versa.

    If you leave the pills out, you can shift front and rear in opposite ranges for a redneck parking brake.

    Most important is the long ramp on the rear shift rail. This needs to be built up with weld and then ground down to a nice U shape as seen opposite on the front shift rail. This prevents the t-case from walking out of rear low.
    Its a Jeep Thing --- No one understands!

    "America will never be destroyed from the outside. If we falter and lose our freedoms, it will be because we destroyed ourselves."
    -Abraham Lincoln

  8. #8
    Thank you from BT Senior Wrench of the forum
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    arizona
    Posts
    199
    Thanks. Exactly what I needed to know.
    1978 cj7 amc360 t18a/d20/teralow, f30posi/r44locked, T/A670, never quite finished but running to beat all hell.....

  9. #9
    Thank you from BT ULTIMUS MAXIMUS STATUS
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Back in VA for a while....
    Posts
    5,822
    And be sure all the notches line up right or they won't fit together on final assembly.
    Don't ask Just trust me on this one. It'll save you from tearing the case back down to see WTF?!
    " “It is said that men go mad in herds, and only come to their senses slowly, and one by one.." -Charles MacKay
    "'The trouble with our liberal friends is not that they're ignorant; it's just that they know so much that isn't so.' "
    -Ronald Reagan

    VOTE

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Bulltear Ad