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Thread: FRONT DIFF. CHOICES

  1. #1
    Thank you from BT Senior Wrench of the forum
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    FRONT DIFF. CHOICES

    I have never seen any articles on the pros and cons of the various locker and limited slip diff's available for the front axle of different 4x4's. You can not tell me that what is good for the rear is the best choice for the front. How do the various types affect steering, binding and traction? How about streetability? What about rock/sand/mud/snow?
    I have a '78 cj7 v8 that I run a detroit soft-lok in the rear and a power-lok on the front. I would like to keep it streetable. Even off-road with the hubs locked and in 2wd, I get slight steering pull. Is this true with all limited-slip and lockers (except selectable)?
    Is anyone running the Aussie locker and would that be a good upgrade? Any input would be helpfull to more than just me I'm sure.
    1978 cj7 amc360 t18a/d20/teralow, f30posi/r44locked, T/A670, never quite finished but running to beat all hell.....

  2. #2
    Thank you from BT ULTIMUS MAXIMUS STATUS tufcj's Avatar
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    To keep it streetable, you'll want to stick with something like your Power-Lock, Detroit Truetrack, an ARB, OX, E-locker or something selectable in the front.

    My CJ is used about 99% off-road. I run a Detroit Soft-Locker in the front. In 2WD it's fine, hubs locked with t-case in 2wd, you know it's there. In 4wd on the street, be ready for a wild ride. Every shift and throttle input changes it's direction, a few seconds of distraction and you can be in the ditch. I installed a twin stick on my Dana 300, just so I can use 2WD low and be able to steer off-road. Any locker, such as a Detroit, Aussie, any of the "lunch box" lockers, or a spool are only good for an off-road only vehicle (in the front axle).

    Bob
    tufcj
    1969 AMX
    1967 Rambler Rogue

    If you need a tool and don't buy it...
    you'll eventually pay for it...
    and not have it.
    Henry Ford

  3. #3
    Thank you from BT Senior Wrench of the forum
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    One question would be;

    There should be no difference driving on pavement between a locker and a posi if the hubs are not locked correct?

    or:

    Are the lockers that much more difficult to steer off road than the limited slips?
    1978 cj7 amc360 t18a/d20/teralow, f30posi/r44locked, T/A670, never quite finished but running to beat all hell.....

  4. #4
    Thank you from BT ULTIMUS MAXIMUS STATUS tufcj's Avatar
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    If the hubs and t-case are both disengaged, then there will be no difference. Even with the hubs in and the t-case in 2WD, the difference is minimal with my locker, but you can feel that the front axles are spinning.

    Bob
    tufcj
    1969 AMX
    1967 Rambler Rogue

    If you need a tool and don't buy it...
    you'll eventually pay for it...
    and not have it.
    Henry Ford

  5. #5

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    With an Aussie locker in the Dana 30hp in front of an XJ, it's nearly transparent in 2wd on the street. With no load/torque on it it doesn't lock. The Aussie only locks when it has power applied to it.

  6. #6
    Thank you from BT Grease Monkey
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    Even for off-road only use I would not reccomend a spool up front.

    I did that in my original Jeep build and cursed it from day one. It effectively doubles your turning radius.

    I went to a lock-right and that was OK. Turned great but must have needed a rebuild as it acted like an open axle if one side had more traction than the other.

    I went to a detroit up front and have not looked back. I would only recommend this for the street if you made sure your hubs were disengaged. Hubs locked on-highway cases a lot of front end push and wander.
    Its a Jeep Thing --- No one understands!

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