Steering Question

[northplainsdrifter]

I'm in the middle of a axle swap on my CJ and I'm would like to get some input on my possible design.

I'm in the process of putting a Scout D44, SOA using YJ springs in my 74 CJ. Without changing knuckles and using as much stock parts as possible, I came up with the deisign of putting the draglink end joint into the tie rod. I would fab up a mount and weld it in or find a simalar tie rod with the hole already in. I know newer YJ & TJ use this system so I'm thinking it would work for me. The way I'm set up now would be extremly difficult to put the drag link on the knuckle. But I will go that way if there is no other choice. So my question is, should it work? I drive this about 50/50 on the road/trail.

Edit - It looks like I might be able to use a Waggy tie rod?

[tufcj]

The Waggy tie rod is meant to drop in from the top, not come up from the bottom like the scout. The taper for the drag link would face the wrong way with scout knuckles. Not to say you couldn't re-cut the tapers in either the arms on the knuckle or the tie rod, but it would be more than a drop-in. Remember you're talking control of the vehicle here, so be very careful, failure means loss of control.

One problem with the Scout knuckles is the long length of the arms takes more travel to turn, so you need a longer pitman or your turning radius is decreased.

Here's my CJ with high steer and Waggy tie rod and drag link (both shortened about 5"). Arms are from Tri-County Gear.





Bob
tufcj

[northplainsdrifter]

I'm taking the steering issues very serious since my family will be riding with me! That is why I'm asking questions BEFORE I do things!
I thinking the Waggy tie rod might work beacuse at one point I moved the steering box backwards putting the pitman arm behind the tie rod, thus when flipping it over it should have the taper on the back side to match up with the drag link. I might have clearence issuses with the diff cover but I'll see. Still might have turning issues but will see. I have more time than money! I did find a knuckle with a hi-steer arm for $175 so I might have to go that way if all else fails.

Thanks for the feedback Tuf!

[tufcj]

The only problem I see there is bump steer. Ideally, the drag link and tie rod should be parallel. The bigger the angle between the two, the more bump steer you'll get.

With the drag link behind the tie rod, you're pitman and steering box will need to be high to avoid the tie rod hitting them during flex.

I tried several configurations (including the Scout 44) before I finally broke down and bought the high steer arms and built my 44. The housing you see is a Chevy 44HD, which is factory SOA, which makes for a very clean install. I had all kinds of clearance, turning, and bump steer issues. My high steer isn't perfect either. If I was to do it again, I'd extend the drag link out to the steering arm. I can't turn fully left if the right tire is at full droop, the drag link is too short. After I installed the high steer, I stood back and asked if I should paint a target on the diff cover (hence the rock slider).

Keep us updated. I'd like to see the solution you come up with.

Bob
tufcj

[ironman_gq]

they do sell sleeves that allow you to drill out the factory taper and drop in the sleeve to put the tie rod on top of the knuckle. I think they are designed for GM rod ends

[Mudrat]

I cheezed out and bought new knuckels for the Waggy 44's. Don't have enough time at home to build them. These are Deadnbear units and are already 3/4" taller than stock. A bit (lot?) on the spendy side, but gives the 4 - 9/16 studs some good grip and the P-side is set up for high steer with the drag link and tie-rod off the arm. I still needed the 1" spacer to clear the waggy springs on both sides.

Click pics for larger view.



And I'm running almost parallel . . .

[northplainsdrifter]

I would love to set up my steering that way, maybe in the future, but right now the wallet doesn't allow for it. I had a free Waggy tie rod setup fall through so I'm looking for another one. My plan is to install the Waggy tie rod from the bottom, that should put the mounting for the drag link where I need it. In my mind it will work. I also have my D30 knuckles I could put on if I run into too many problems. I'm busy mounting the rear D44 now so I'm still researching alternatives for the steering. I've seen someone using Blazer tie rod ends and making their own, that is an option too.

[northplainsdrifter]

Does anyone know if 96-98 Chevy 1500 tie rod ends will fit Scout knuckles? Are the tapered hole on the knuckles all the same on D44"s? Found a few on Craigslist so my mind was wandering towards building something. I know this CL post will expire soon but here's a link.
http://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/pts/1636606532.html

[tufcj]

I do know the factory CJ ends were smaller than the Waggy. I had to have the pitman reamed to fit the Waggy end. A local machine shop charged me $10 to do it.

Hard to say if the tapers are the same diameter. I think you could buy a new Waggy tie rod for less than they're asking for that Chevy stuff.

Bob
tufcj

[northplainsdrifter]

Thanks, that's kind of what I was thinking. I was just sitting here letting my mind wander........ That's a terrible thing!