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Steering Question - Page 2
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Thread: Steering Question

  1. #11
    Thank you from BT Junior wrench of the Forum
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    Does anyone know if a Waggy pitman arm will fit the 74 CJ steering box w/power steering?
    74 CJ5, 360w/T-18/D20, Scout D44's Locked front & rear w 5.38's, 36" Swampers & a ton of work...

    It's a Jeep thing, Chrysler doesn't understand!

  2. #12
    Thank you from BT ULTIMUS MAXIMUS STATUS tufcj's Avatar
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    The Waggy pitman will fit, they both use Saginaw steering boxes. The waggy pitman is longer though, it may cause interference between the tie rod and drag link.

    Bob
    tufcj
    1969 AMX
    1967 Rambler Rogue

    If you need a tool and don't buy it...
    you'll eventually pay for it...
    and not have it.
    Henry Ford


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  3. #13
    Thank you from BT Grease Monkey
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    Quote Originally Posted by ironman_gq
    they do sell sleeves that allow you to drill out the factory taper and drop in the sleeve to put the tie rod on top of the knuckle. I think they are designed for GM rod ends
    Quote Originally Posted by tufcj
    I do know the factory CJ ends were smaller than the Waggy. I had to have the pitman reamed to fit the Waggy end. A local machine shop charged me $10 to do it.

    Hard to say if the tapers are the same diameter. I think you could buy a new Waggy tie rod for less than they're asking for that Chevy stuff.

    Bob
    tufcj

    iirc, all 1/2 ton (ford,chev,dodge,amc) tie rod ends have the same taper & diameter.

    Same as one-tons all being the same. These have the same taper angle, but the min-max diameters are bigger and the taper length is longer.

    I don't know about 3/4 ton I believe they were either 1/2 or 1 ton depending on vehicle and options.

    The CJ ends have the same taper angle as 1/2 tons but have a smaller overall taper diameter. You pitman arm can be enlarged by using the correct angle reamer.

    It's been years since modifying 1/2 ton gear. I deal mostly in 1 ton stuff now. Going by memory here, so some of this may be incorrect.

    Dang CRS!!!

    A tie rod is easily constructed from DOM as well. 3/8" wall will work, but I prefer 1/2" wall for off road. Just make sure your ID is enough to cut the threads. (ID = OD - 2 x Wall Thickness) 1 1/2", 1/2" wall DOM tube is the correct ID to tap for 1 ton ends.

    Most machine shops have taps to cut the threads.

    Roll cage builders have mandrel benders if you need to clearance the tie rod around the diff.

    Some like to use heim joints in steering systems. But, for on-road use, you would have to constantly check heim condition and make sure the bolts/holes are not wearing.

    I use tie rod ends on my off-road rig and would not use anything else. I hit a stump right at the steering arm and bend the TRE shank about 15* and no breakage. (1-ton end) That really impressed me!

    Good luck with you upgrade!
    Its a Jeep Thing --- No one understands!

    "America will never be destroyed from the outside. If we falter and lose our freedoms, it will be because we destroyed ourselves."
    -Abraham Lincoln

  4. #14
    Thank you from BT Junior wrench of the Forum
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    Finally got the CJ out of the gargare after the axle swap. For the drag link I ened up drilling a new hole in the knuckle and put in a heim joint. I like how it came out. I still have lots of little things to do, BUT IT MOVES!




    74 CJ5, 360w/T-18/D20, Scout D44's Locked front & rear w 5.38's, 36" Swampers & a ton of work...

    It's a Jeep thing, Chrysler doesn't understand!

  5. #15
    Thank you from BT ULTIMUS MAXIMUS STATUS tufcj's Avatar
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    You'll love the SOA. Best mod I ever did to my CJ.

    Just looking at the front spring hangers. Did you rotate the knuckles enough to get the caster right? Looks like the pinion angle is good.

    I didn't like having the front shackles below the frame on mine, they became rock catchers. In it's second incarnation, I moved the top of the shackles into the frame rail by welding in some tubes, which also lowered the back of the spring, and helped with caster and pinion angle.

    Looking good. Got her going just in time to enjoy the summer sun.

    Bob
    tufcj
    1969 AMX
    1967 Rambler Rogue

    If you need a tool and don't buy it...
    you'll eventually pay for it...
    and not have it.
    Henry Ford


    Vote for BULLTEAR on top4x4sites.com ===> VOTE BUTTON

  6. #16
    Thank you from BT Junior wrench of the Forum
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    I ground and moved the c's to give me about 6 degrees caster, this did allow better pinion angle. Because of the Scout front end, I had to outboard the front springs a bit otherwise I would have moved the shackles into the frame like you said. I used YJ springs in front and XJ in the rear. It's still a little too soft in back, I'll throw another leaf in hopes to stiffen it up. I still have lots a minor things to finish. So far I'm happy with it, it made it to the store and back for a 12 pack!
    74 CJ5, 360w/T-18/D20, Scout D44's Locked front & rear w 5.38's, 36" Swampers & a ton of work...

    It's a Jeep thing, Chrysler doesn't understand!

  7. #17
    Thank you from BT Senior Wrench of the forum Old Rugged Crosser's Avatar
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    Steering

    Here is another good site to check out on this: http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billav...ngresearch.htm
    Larry The Old Rugged Crosser
    in a Old Rugged Cross'en 72 CJ-5
    ------------------------------------------
    You are invited to view my rebuild of The Old Rugged Crosser --CJ-5 at:

    http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/rebuilding-old-rugged-crosser-cj5-1180801/

    ------------------------------------------
    "He that is kind is free, though he is a slave; he that is evil is a slave, though he be a king." - St. Augustine

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