What's new in your shop?

[mrtazwrench]

PAINT.
Amazing how much brighter and easier to light things are with just a coat of white paint. Got a little over 1/2 done last weekend, hopefully finish this weekend.

Using one of these I borrowed from a bud. Great for shooting latex paint.

Bob
tufcj

It does make a difference doesn't it!! Waiting to get the new shop built so I can clean out the 'old' one for another coat. A/C has also been a plus in mine :-)

The shop at the new work has A/C, this will be the first summer working there.

[Goose]

Well I finally saved the scratch for a new Miller 211 welder and a (cheapie) plasma cutter.. Ramsond 50 amp.

Now that Im done with most of the projects except the javelin. I am however thinking about a tubing bender/notcher and maybe building a tube chassis for a track T using the C4 corvette running gear.
It's amazing how many buddies I had that i didnt know about until i got these two pieces of equipment.

[Old Rugged Crosser]

RIPPLES BELIEVE IT OR NOT

This post is about how to use an old tool in a new way.

Have you ever had trouble cutting sheet metal without bending it up while using snips? I think we all have. Here's how I cut my sheet metal. I use my table saw or hand skill saw. When I first was instructed in this I was told to reverse the saw blade, which I initially did. Then I decided to try it with the normal blade installation and I couldn't find it made much difference. The only thing I would say is that you might need to feed the material to the saw blade a little slower.

If you are going to try this I fully recommend using all safety precautions--eye protection and arm and face protection as it tends to spit hot bits of steal. Also a slow feed is needed or you will overtake the blades capability and jamb it. When done properly it works beautifully. You get nice straight cuts and your sheet metal does not get wrinkled up.

I have even cut .120 square tubing and angle. I use a carbide steal blade and believe it or not it really does not affect it. A plywood blade works best for sheet metal. However, I have used ripping blades with success.

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[mrtazwrench]

The roof... since it fell in just before new years...

[BREK]

Swapped in a 2.64 1st gear t10 just in time to put the car in storage before winter.

[msalaba]

RIPPLES BELIEVE IT OR NOT

This post is about how to use an old tool in a new way.

Have you ever had trouble cutting sheet metal without bending it up while using snips? I think we all have. Here's how I cut my sheet metal. I use my table saw or hand skill saw. When I first was instructed in this I was told to reverse the saw blade, which I initially did. Then I decided to try it with the normal blade installation and I couldn't find it made much difference. The only thing I would say is that you might need to feed the material to the saw blade a little slower.

If you are going to try this I fully recommend using all safety precautions--eye protection and arm and face protection as it tends to spit hot bits of steal. Also a slow feed is needed or you will overtake the blades capability and jamb it. When done properly it works beautifully. You get nice straight cuts and your sheet metal does not get wrinkled up.

I have even cut .120 square tubing and angle. I use a carbide steal blade and believe it or not it really does not affect it. A plywood blade works best for sheet metal. However, I have used ripping blades with success.

http://[IMG]http://i908.photobucket.....jpg[/IMG]

You need a blade like this:



It is safer, made for metal, and will last a very long time.

I'll never use an abrasive blade in a chop saw again.

[Old Rugged Crosser]

You need a blade like this:



It is safer, made for metal, and will last a very long time.

I'll never use an abrasive blade in a chop saw again.

Msalba: Thanks for the info. Can you tell me where you bought it and do you know what sizes it comes in? Do you use it for all stock?

[ironman_gq]

make sure to check the RPM reading for those blades before you put them in any saw. A lot of metal cutting blades are purpose built to use in a metal cutting saw. For sure I know the chop saw blades are 1800rpm and not the 5400 that an abrasive saw is. Too fast and the teeth can come off like a bullet or the whole blade can come apart.

[msalaba]

Msalba: Thanks for the info. Can you tell me where you bought it and do you know what sizes it comes in? Do you use it for all stock?

I actually have a DeWalt Saw with this blade:

SPECIFICATIONS

BLADE:

• Diameter: 14"
• Arbor: 1"
• Teeth: 70
• Grind: M-ATB
• Hook: 0º
• Plate: 0.071" (1.8 mm)
• Kerf: 0.087" (2.2 mm)

MAX RPM:

• 1800 RPM

APPLICATION:

• Heavy Gauge Metal

I bought the saw at a local tool supply shop. They are available through online vendors as well. The one previously mentioned is the first thing that popped up on a google search.

I have this saw:


SPECIFICATIONS

MOTOR:

• 15.0 AC/DC Amps
• 4.0 HP

NO LOAD SPEED:

• 1300 RPM

WHEEL:

• Arbor: 1"
• Diameter: 14" (355 mm)

MAX CAPACITY:

• Round: 5-3/16"
• Rectangular: 6-1/2" x 4-1/2"

TOOL SIZE:

• Length: 21"
• Weight: 47.0 lbs

Found here: http://www.mikestools.com/DW872-DeWa...utter-Saw.aspx



ironman_gq:

Good call, CRS prevented me from thinking about the RPM difference. It would be wise to check RPM of both the tool and blade in any application!