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Thread: Which Clutch?

  1. #1
    Thank you from BT Junior wrench of the Forum
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    Which Clutch?

    I'm in the middle of a engine swap and was wondering what would be a good clutch to use, pressure plate and disc, etc. I have a CJ with a 360 with a mild cam, T-18, 36" tires and 5.38 gears.
    74 CJ5, 360w/T-18/D20, Scout D44's Locked front & rear w 5.38's, 36" Swampers & a ton of work...

    It's a Jeep thing, Chrysler doesn't understand!

  2. #2
    Thank you from BT ULTIMUS MAXIMUS STATUS tufcj's Avatar
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    I've had great luck using a factory Borg & Beck 11" HD clutch from a Wagoneer. It's a 3 finger truck clutch, and the spring pressure can be tough on the leg muscles, but they last. If you're going for a lighter pedal, then go with a diaphragm type.

    I burned out the factory clutch on my CJ with under 20K miles. Replaced it with the 11" unit (holes are already in the flywheel) and ran it about another 60K, when the front seal on the trans went bad and oiled it. Replaced it with another, and that one is still going strong with about 73K more miles on it. (Yes, my CJ shows 153K on the odometer).

    Bob
    tufcj
    1969 AMX
    1967 Rambler Rogue

    If you need a tool and don't buy it...
    you'll eventually pay for it...
    and not have it.
    Henry Ford

  3. #3
    Thank you from BT Junior wrench of the Forum
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    You have a CJ that the odometer works? Wow, mine never has worked.

    The clutch that I'm running now I never really liked, it was either in or out, I couldn't feather it to get over obstacles. I don't mind a stiff clutch as long as I can feel it. It makes it really tough when on a steep incline and the damn things just jumps when you let the clutch out. It is a 11" clutch.
    74 CJ5, 360w/T-18/D20, Scout D44's Locked front & rear w 5.38's, 36" Swampers & a ton of work...

    It's a Jeep thing, Chrysler doesn't understand!

  4. #4
    Thank you from BT Junior wrench of the Forum
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    I just found this, looks reasonable to me. NAPA has another for over $400! That's a little tough on my wallet.

    http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Det...+59999+2999999

    When you buy a NAPA you can use your AAA card and recieve a 7% discount!
    74 CJ5, 360w/T-18/D20, Scout D44's Locked front & rear w 5.38's, 36" Swampers & a ton of work...

    It's a Jeep thing, Chrysler doesn't understand!

  5. #5
    Thank you from BT ULTIMUS MAXIMUS STATUS tufcj's Avatar
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    That looks like what I'm running. Because the clutch cover is so tight to the bolts, the 11" used a special bolt with a raised shoulder and small head so it can be tightened without the socket slipping.

    Mine does "feather" in pretty well. I can release the clutch until I feel the driveline load, then release the brake and give it gas. I did modify my clutch linkage a bit to make it smoother. I cut off the factory 90* bent ends on the rod between the pedal and Z-bar, threaded the rod, and put on ball/socket joints. It eliminates the wear and slop in the linkage, and makes it move smoother. I think the ends are around $10 at my local NAPA.

    Bob
    tufcj
    1969 AMX
    1967 Rambler Rogue

    If you need a tool and don't buy it...
    you'll eventually pay for it...
    and not have it.
    Henry Ford

  6. #6
    Thank you from BT Junior wrench of the Forum
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    Now I'm confused... I just measured my clutch disc and it is 10.5". I swear I had a 11" clutch. Am I measuring it right? The distance across the clutch disc is where you get your measurement, right? What about the flywheel, can you use a 10.5 or a 11" clutch pack? It seems to me when I put the T-18 in that I had to use a Ford clutch disc, though I can't remember that far back.
    74 CJ5, 360w/T-18/D20, Scout D44's Locked front & rear w 5.38's, 36" Swampers & a ton of work...

    It's a Jeep thing, Chrysler doesn't understand!

  7. #7
    Thank you from BT ULTIMUS MAXIMUS STATUS tufcj's Avatar
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    The Borg & Beck is nearly identical to a GM truck clutch. Only the finger height is different. You could run a 10.5 clutch disc under an 11" cover. I think the 11" disc shows a 10.95" actual diameter in the books though.

    Bob
    tufcj
    1969 AMX
    1967 Rambler Rogue

    If you need a tool and don't buy it...
    you'll eventually pay for it...
    and not have it.
    Henry Ford

  8. #8
    Thank you from BT Junior wrench of the Forum
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    I had to have a local "friction supply company" make up a disc for me, just like the last time put it all together. They rebuilt the pressure too.

    I was wondering if anybody else has the same problem that you can't buy an "off the shelf" clutch kit for a AMC 360 with a T-18 mated to it. I have a 10.5" clutch and the input shaft for my T-18 is a 1 1/16" 10 spline. I could only find a 1 1/8" 10 spline disc. They said a 86" CJ is the only year that Jeep made a tranmission with a 1 1/16 input shaft. If I knew a 11" clutch would work with my flywheel I might have been able to go that direction, I think those are more available.
    74 CJ5, 360w/T-18/D20, Scout D44's Locked front & rear w 5.38's, 36" Swampers & a ton of work...

    It's a Jeep thing, Chrysler doesn't understand!

  9. #9
    Thank you from BT Senior Wrench of the forum
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    Just installed a Center Force Two clutch and P/P in my '78 cj7, with a Ford t-18 (1 1/16 shaft) and a 360. No problems. The Center Force people sent me all of the right stuff and the clutch is very smooth. Hooks up great when I drop the hammer. Very easy on the foot. I am very happy.
    1978 cj7 amc360 t18a/d20/teralow, f30posi/r44locked, T/A670, never quite finished but running to beat all hell.....

  10. #10
    Thank you from BT Grease Monkey
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    Its a Jeep Thing --- No one understands!

    "America will never be destroyed from the outside. If we falter and lose our freedoms, it will be because we destroyed ourselves."
    -Abraham Lincoln

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