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Thread: cj7 master cylinder

  1. #1
    Thank you from BT Senior Wrench of the forum
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    cj7 master cylinder

    Still battling the cj7 soft brake syndrome. Has someone found a good upgrade for 1978 cj7 master brake cylinder? I always have to pump my brakes 2-3 times.

    First pump comes up half-way, Second pump comes up firmer, Third pump is just to be sure.

    All drums,rotors,and brakes are new. I was told that the master cylinder had been replaced. All brakes are bled. I need a better than stock master cylinder,possibly with a longer throw. Any suggestions?
    1978 cj7 amc360 t18a/d20/teralow, f30posi/r44locked, T/A670, never quite finished but running to beat all hell.....

  2. #2
    Thank you from BT Tech Master Bulltear Forum
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    I have the same problem and I've found that adjusting the rear drums a little tighter usually helps a lot. I go from 2-3 pump brakes to right now stopping brakes just by adjusting the drums. Not sure why the auto adjusters dont do it but they dont. Im thinking that discs are in my future

  3. #3
    Thank you from BT Master (OIIIO)
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    Go over to IFSJA... there is a guy who sells stuff for cheap that will take care of your brake issues... I can't remember if you have to click wanted or for sale either way, check it out.

  4. #4
    Thank you from BT Senior Wrench of the forum
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    Will try to adjust the rear bracks and see if that helps.

    Looked at IFSJA on most of the boards (including vendors), but did not find anything about master cylinder upgrades/fixes. If you have anything more specific please let me know. Thanks.
    1978 cj7 amc360 t18a/d20/teralow, f30posi/r44locked, T/A670, never quite finished but running to beat all hell.....

  5. #5
    Thank you from BT Grease Monkey
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    I had the same problem after I replaced all the brake lines. I ended up getting a power bleeder and that solved my problems.

    As previously mentioned, make sure you have the shoes adjusted so they just barely drag. The rear circuit does not have a lot of volume to actuate the shoes.

    Has anyone seen the auto adjusters work? I have put never sieze on the adjuster bolts and they still don't adjust. Periodically I have to manually adjust. (This is on my S10)

    If your master turns out to be bad, replace it with an OEM equivelent. Engineers spent a lot of money designing the system. The only reason to change it is if you change other parts of the system. i.e. add rear disk or larger front calipers. By changing out the master you could open pandora's box.
    Its a Jeep Thing --- No one understands!

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  6. #6
    Thank you from BT Master (OIIIO)
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    Hmmm, couldn't find the link either but, I do have this link on my favorites... this could be another route for you.
    http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showt...=brake+upgrade

  7. #7
    Thank you from BT ULTIMUS MAXIMUS STATUS tufcj's Avatar
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    Master Power Brakes does a dual diaphragm booster with upgraded master. Pricey though, around $450. Took a serious look at their system when I did my rear disc setup.

    http://www.mpbrakes.com/

    Bob
    tufcj
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  8. #8
    Thank you from BT Senior Wrench of the forum Old Rugged Crosser's Avatar
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    Re: cj7 master cylinder

    Quote Originally Posted by juggernaught
    Still battling the cj7 soft brake syndrome. Has someone found a good upgrade for 1978 cj7 master brake cylinder? I always have to pump my brakes 2-3 times.
    Your problem is not your master cylinder. You have air in your system. That is why you can pump up brakes.

    Get all the air out and you will have good brakes without misspending a lot of money.
    Larry The Old Rugged Crosser
    in a Old Rugged Cross'en 72 CJ-5
    ------------------------------------------
    You are invited to view my rebuild of The Old Rugged Crosser --CJ-5 at:

    http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/rebuilding-old-rugged-crosser-cj5-1180801/

    ------------------------------------------
    "He that is kind is free, though he is a slave; he that is evil is a slave, though he be a king." - St. Augustine

  9. #9
    Thank you from BT Senior Wrench of the forum
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    I am familiar with the hydroboost system and don't want to go there yet. I already had my brakes bled about a year ago without much change in the peddle pressure. I will ask them if they were "power bled". I usually only have my brakes done by shops that "power bleed", but can't remember.I will look at the rear adjustment, but have been there before and everything seemed to be good.

    Lets pretend that everything is in adjustment and that there is no air in the system. Nothing is leaking. All parts are newly replaced (except the m/c). Now, what are my options (except hydroboost) for a m/c replacement? Anything besides a stock unit?
    1978 cj7 amc360 t18a/d20/teralow, f30posi/r44locked, T/A670, never quite finished but running to beat all hell.....

  10. #10
    Thank you from BT Junior wrench of the Forum
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    I had D30 with disc brakes from around 78? Someone told me they were Ford. The only way I could get the air out of the front disc's was to take them off and point the bleeder straight up, then bleed them. When mounted, the bleeder was in about the 2 o'clock position and I couldn't get all the air out till I removed them.
    74 CJ5, 360w/T-18/D20, Scout D44's Locked front & rear w 5.38's, 36" Swampers & a ton of work...

    It's a Jeep thing, Chrysler doesn't understand!

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