Which kit do I use for this carb?
http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Res...word&Nty=1&N=0
Or, does someone have a part number from Summit?
I would like to get the 40 dollar kit, the 100 dollar is to much for me right now.
Thanks again,
Jim
Which kit do I use for this carb?
http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Res...word&Nty=1&N=0
Or, does someone have a part number from Summit?
I would like to get the 40 dollar kit, the 100 dollar is to much for me right now.
Thanks again,
Jim
Question, I do not have a return fuel line on the Jeep.
Do I have to have one?
I can't remember if my '79 w/a 304 had one or not.
P.S. I don't see why if I run a fuel pressure regulator, hum
Rebuilt the Holley 600cfm today, easiest carb I've ever rebuilt, easier then the 2bbl carter.
Bought the rebuild kit from NAPA, 45 bucks.
old pic
Return line isn't a requirement. It's there to help control vapor lock. The fuel moves through the lines faster when there's a return, so it heats less, and is constantly drawing cooler fuel from the tank. Factory, my Jeep had a fuel filter up by the carb, one inlet, 2 outlets, one to the carb, the other a return line to the tank.
Bob
tufcj
1969 AMX
1967 Rambler Rogue
If you need a tool and don't buy it...
you'll eventually pay for it...
and not have it.
Henry Ford
Thanks Bob, I figured I didn't need it, just asking since the pump was pumping fuel out the secondary venturies, but I rebuilt it today w/a friend of mine. Nothing to do 5+" of snow and more coming.
I still want to put a inline fuel pressure reg on but will try w/out it w/the 6505 pump.
Jim, with that carb you need to pay special attention to the power relief valve. If the motor calf's back through the carb it can rupture it and will cause it to run rich and will run very ragged. If the kit didn't include it you might want to get one for your tool kit.
Larry The Old Rugged Crosser
in a Old Rugged Cross'en 72 CJ-5
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You are invited to view my rebuild of The Old Rugged Crosser --CJ-5 at:
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/rebuilding-old-rugged-crosser-cj5-1180801/
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"He that is kind is free, though he is a slave; he that is evil is a slave, though he be a king." - St. Augustine
Thanks larry, the old valve was leaking and in the kit two were supplied whereas I only needed one for the front bowl. So I guess I have a spare :)
Thanks for the tip.
Going to have to put off the intake this week, pulled something in the back that is causing the sciatic nerve to cause my right leg to hurt when I'm on it, might have to preach sitting down as did someone else I know of who did. But I'll suck it up and stand in there.
Thanks again guys,
Jim
Please see post #3 for pics.
Question, When I install this carb do I need a specific gasket, meaning, do I need a thick one (1/4" or so) or just the thin one that came in the kit.
Also, the previous owner used some blue RTV on the base to seal it. I have never done this. Would this be a good practice?
Thanks,
Jim
Last edited by rollbar; 03-06-2011 at 12:47 AM.
I wouldn't use blue RTV (or any RTV) where there's direct contact with fuel. You might be able to use the thin gasket, but you may have heat transfer problems between the manifold and carb. I had to use a 1/2" phenolic spacer on my Jeep because when the engine was hot, the heat transfer to the carb would boil/evaporate all the gas out of the fuel bowls, causing a hard start hot. Try the thin gasket, if there are no problems, you're golden. If there's a problem, add longer studs and a spacer.
Bob
tufcj
1969 AMX
1967 Rambler Rogue
If you need a tool and don't buy it...
you'll eventually pay for it...
and not have it.
Henry Ford
"A man's got to know his limitation's"
Dirty Harry.