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Holley 600cfm Rebuild Kit needed for 4776-5 // 2690
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Thread: Holley 600cfm Rebuild Kit needed for 4776-5 // 2690

  1. #1
    Thank you from BT Tech Master Bulltear Forum
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    Holley 600cfm Rebuild Kit needed for 4776-5 // 2690

    Which kit do I use for this carb?

    http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Res...word&Nty=1&N=0

    Or, does someone have a part number from Summit?

    I would like to get the 40 dollar kit, the 100 dollar is to much for me right now.

    Thanks again,
    Jim
    84' CJ8-360-Project M170 Jeep
    86' CJ7-258-Mommas Jeep
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  2. #2
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    Question, I do not have a return fuel line on the Jeep.

    Do I have to have one?

    I can't remember if my '79 w/a 304 had one or not.

    P.S. I don't see why if I run a fuel pressure regulator, hum
    84' CJ8-360-Project M170 Jeep
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  3. #3
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    Rebuilt the Holley 600cfm today, easiest carb I've ever rebuilt, easier then the 2bbl carter.

    Bought the rebuild kit from NAPA, 45 bucks.

    old pic


    84' CJ8-360-Project M170 Jeep
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  4. #4
    Thank you from BT ULTIMUS MAXIMUS STATUS tufcj's Avatar
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    Return line isn't a requirement. It's there to help control vapor lock. The fuel moves through the lines faster when there's a return, so it heats less, and is constantly drawing cooler fuel from the tank. Factory, my Jeep had a fuel filter up by the carb, one inlet, 2 outlets, one to the carb, the other a return line to the tank.

    Bob
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  5. #5
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    Thanks Bob, I figured I didn't need it, just asking since the pump was pumping fuel out the secondary venturies, but I rebuilt it today w/a friend of mine. Nothing to do 5+" of snow and more coming.

    I still want to put a inline fuel pressure reg on but will try w/out it w/the 6505 pump.
    84' CJ8-360-Project M170 Jeep
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  6. #6
    Thank you from BT Senior Wrench of the forum Old Rugged Crosser's Avatar
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    Jim, with that carb you need to pay special attention to the power relief valve. If the motor calf's back through the carb it can rupture it and will cause it to run rich and will run very ragged. If the kit didn't include it you might want to get one for your tool kit.
    Larry The Old Rugged Crosser
    in a Old Rugged Cross'en 72 CJ-5
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    You are invited to view my rebuild of The Old Rugged Crosser --CJ-5 at:

    http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/rebuilding-old-rugged-crosser-cj5-1180801/

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  7. #7
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    Thanks larry, the old valve was leaking and in the kit two were supplied whereas I only needed one for the front bowl. So I guess I have a spare :)

    Thanks for the tip.

    Going to have to put off the intake this week, pulled something in the back that is causing the sciatic nerve to cause my right leg to hurt when I'm on it, might have to preach sitting down as did someone else I know of who did. But I'll suck it up and stand in there.

    Thanks again guys,
    Jim
    84' CJ8-360-Project M170 Jeep
    86' CJ7-258-Mommas Jeep
    Project CJ8 to M170 Conversion<----Click

  8. #8
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    Please see post #3 for pics.

    Question, When I install this carb do I need a specific gasket, meaning, do I need a thick one (1/4" or so) or just the thin one that came in the kit.

    Also, the previous owner used some blue RTV on the base to seal it. I have never done this. Would this be a good practice?

    Thanks,
    Jim
    Last edited by rollbar; 03-06-2011 at 12:47 AM.
    84' CJ8-360-Project M170 Jeep
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  9. #9
    Thank you from BT ULTIMUS MAXIMUS STATUS tufcj's Avatar
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    I wouldn't use blue RTV (or any RTV) where there's direct contact with fuel. You might be able to use the thin gasket, but you may have heat transfer problems between the manifold and carb. I had to use a 1/2" phenolic spacer on my Jeep because when the engine was hot, the heat transfer to the carb would boil/evaporate all the gas out of the fuel bowls, causing a hard start hot. Try the thin gasket, if there are no problems, you're golden. If there's a problem, add longer studs and a spacer.

    Bob
    tufcj
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  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by rollbar View Post
    Thanks larry, the old valve was leaking and in the kit two were supplied whereas I only needed one for the front bowl. So I guess I have a spare :)


    Thanks again guys,
    Jim
    If you look at those two power valves i bet they are different.. on the inside rim there will be some numbers stamped on them indicating what vacuum levels the open at. for tuning and different applications. hope that helps
    "A man's got to know his limitation's"

    Dirty Harry.

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