Exhaust Pipe Routing - Need Pics - AMC360

[rollbar]

I would like to see some pics so I can get an idea of how I want to run my exhaust.

I either want to run outside, or, inside. If I run inside, I would like to put two collectors on so I can take the center out from the manifold to the muffler for room to work if needed (just an idea).

Thanks,
Jim

[tufcj]

Mine is custom to avoid crushing the "Y" pipe. It's 2 1/4" (matches the manifold outlets) to where the pipes join, then 3" out the back. I have to run a cat because of emissions laws. Factory manifolds (again, emissions), the passenger side turns forward, then under the front of the pan before turning rearward.











Bob
tufcj

[rollbar]

Thanks Bob, so the factory outlet is 2 1/4". We don't have the emission law in this town so I'm not going to run cats, I do want to run some dumps from Summit. I also am not going to run a crossover pipe.

Any cons on running the dumps?

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MRG-5424

[tufcj]

No problem with dumps. All you may get is LOUD. I noticed a nice gain in low end torque when I went from headers/glasspacks to the single 3" exhaust. It does lose a little top end with the single exhaust (that's where the dumps may help) but I seldom rev it over 4000. Besides, I guess I got old, it just wasn't fun to have my ears ring for a couple of hours after driving the Jeep. I like to hear the radio and CB when I go down the road now.

Bob
tufcj

[rollbar]

Ya, I had glasspacks on my '79 frame up.


I have been driving Jeeps since I was a early teen w/the Willy's and all these years my ears ring e/the canvas/no top.

I am going to use stock mufflers so I can hear :) & have the dumps at hand so when a punk kid in a rice burner pulls up I can smile and just open them up :)

I've been use to the 258/304 so the 360 will be plenty in any state. Should be fun.

Thanks Bob

[rollbar]

Bob, what is the opening for the stock exhaust 2 1/4"?

[tufcj]

Boy, that manifold looks pretty rusty! Maybe just the pic.

Factory outlet is 2 1/4". There was a heat riser on the passenger side. I deleted mine and used shorter studs to help with the turn forward. There is a donut gasket that slides into the manifold, the end of the pipe is flared outward, and there's a piece that slides around the pipe to catch the studs and the flare and pull it together. I got some all aluminum donuts at NAPA, stock were a pressed material (asbestos maybe?)

Bob
tufcj

[rollbar]

Yep cleaned it up w/a wire brush on a drill but now that I have a glass bead cabinet I still won't take it off :)

I have some donuts (aluminum looks like/bluish in color) a friend gave me (new) and I to am not going to use the heat riser.

Thanks Bob, 2 1/4" it will be.

[rollbar]

Exhaust routing planning:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-1V4J9DYr64

[tufcj]

The drivers side will torque upward, you'll have to plan your clearances accordingly. You want it to "float" since the engine moves some on the mounts. The only other thing I can think of is that if you curve the exhaust upward, it gives condensation a place to puddle when it cools, and could start rust from the inside. I don't know how much you'll rock crawl with it, but putting mufflers outside the frame rails leaves them exposed to be crushed. That's part of why I went to a single 3".

We did a V6 CJ in a similar way outside the frame, even ran the tailpipes up over the back tires inside the fender wells, so it can be done.

Bob
tufcj