Jeep won't stay running (ignition maybe)

[rollbar]

I rebuilt the carb/fuel to carb.

Set timing and adjusted while cranking to get her to fire.

Motor fires and stops running (Vroom, then doesn't stay running). I can keep hitting the key and it will fire then in RUN mode it will stop.

Is there a way to jumper the solenoid to the coil so it will stay running to see if it is in fact the ignition switch that maybe causing this?

Any ideas are helpful.

Thanks again,
Jim

[tufcj]

Not sure of color codes, but there is a dual power system to the ignition. One circuit supplies a full 12V to the coil for starting (key in start position), a second circuit supplies a lower voltage when the key is in the "run" position. Looks like a problem with the wiring for the run position.

Not sure how or if you can jumper the Motorcraft control box.

Bob
tufcj

[rollbar]

I'm using the I-6 wiring. Maybe someone has a idea as to the wire. Hum.

Thanks, Bob

[Old Rugged Crosser]

Jim regarding the top picture. Where does that red and white wire go. It should not be on that terminal. That post is only hot when you have the key turned to the start possition. As soon as you let the key go from the start possition it no longer supplies power to the coil. If you want to fire it, take that wire off and run it to anything hot. You motor will run. To turn the motor off at that point you will need to disconect that wire from the power source you just attatched it to. The problem is not in you key sw. Apparently you do not have a wire running from your ign. sw. to the coil. This you must have in order for it to stay running.

[rollbar]

Hum, not sure, I wired it 1.5 yrs ago. Maybe the black one goes there that is tye-wrapped off.

Thank Larry, will check and check grounds as well.

I will ger back to you all.

Can I make a jumper from that wire to the + side of the battery for testing?

[rollbar]

P.S. If that works, it would be a nice kill switch :) idea even though I messed up :(

[Old Rugged Crosser]

Hum, not sure, I wired it 1.5 yrs ago. Maybe the black one goes there that is tye-wrapped off.

Thank Larry, will check and check grounds as well.

I will ger back to you all.

Can I make a jumper from that wire to the + side of the battery for testing?

Yes!!!!!!!!!

[rollbar]

Thanks, I'll try it.

[Old Rugged Crosser]

Jim,

I'm just wondern if that wire that is hangen in the top pic dos'nt belong where the red/w wire is. Note that at the coil is the same wire with a connector on it.
Where does the red wire that is on the coil go. Do you have a multi meter that you can take that reading of that wire while disconnected and read with the key turned on? It should read peak voltage as you would read at the batt. If you read it at lower v. when someone holds the key to the start possition it is a resistance wire that should be for running long term. It would be my guess that the missing red/w at the coil wire would be for starting and should read full voltage.

Hope this doesn't confuse you to much. When working on electrical having a multi meter is a must.

[rollbar]

Hum, I'll have to check it out tomorrow afternoon, studying for class tonight (Colossians ch 3-4).

I will trace the red wire and the R/White wire.

THe R/W is the resistance one, correct?

SO U might be saying the R/W on the solenoid should be on the/connected to the coil?

I can wire a house/building etc but I HATE tracing wires down, oh well, a painless wireing system would be sweet but for the $$, na.

Thanks again,
Jim