Jeep won't stay running (ignition maybe)

[Old Rugged Crosser]

Jim,

Let me tell you what you should have: You should have a wire running from the s term. on the solenoid to the key sw S term. which activates the solenoid. You should have a wire running from the solenoid Ig. term to coil which will read full V. You should have a wire running from your key sw. Ig term. to coil. This would be a resistance wire and not read full voltage maybe 2 volts lower. This wire shuts off when the key returns to run from start.

The easiest way to trace a wire is with a ohm meter.

I love the study of Colossians and Galatians. The key to whom we are "In Christ."

Tha'ts what you need to have. How it achieves this, well that is a mystery.

[rollbar]

Thanks Larry, will check. Yep Preeminence of Christ - Preeminent; above all; before others; superior; surpassing.

I guess I would have to look on the column to find the wire and trace it (R/W correct).

[rollbar]

OK, using test light only.

1. Key on: nothing on the + coil/solenoid either side.

2. Start: + coil = light; solenoid = light on both sides

[rollbar]

I have to look. I have the old stock coil hook up in the harness and I used a separate module hook up, don't ask. I have to go look and see what's up. I did test the stock coil "U" clip w/the key on and no light. Might have to drop back and punt.

[rollbar]

Jeep won't stay running.

Sorry for all the questions etc.

I also hooked up a test light to the power steering bracket and tested it and it works from there so my grounding should be ok.

1. I ran a wire to the + side of the coil from the battery and as long as I keep the key on it would try to fire but when I let the key go it would not stay running. The starter was keeping it firing/spinning over etc.

2. Without the jumper wire to the + side of the coil it would just go VROOM and die.

3. Below wiring and routing for the Jeep.

4. NOTICE-the brown wire trying in w/the red/white and crimped then going to the solenoid, NOT SURE what that's about.

5. NOTICE-I know I don't need it but I left the old harness incase I wanted to install the I-6 again. Also Notice I just cut the ends off the solenoid and added crimped on ends but left them in their position. Also notice the distributor I hooked that one up and left off the one in the harness as you see at the top. MAYBE I need to use that one ?? But I don't think it has the green wire.


6. Any help would be appreciated even if I have to gut the wires and start over, but I would know where to start.


Solenoid - Note: the blue wire runs to the fire wall block plug.


See the Red/White wire in the loom


Solenoid Red/white wire tied into brown w/green lettering wire running to drivers side compartment

Brown wire w/green lettering @ drivers side block tied into thicker red/white wire. Blue wire from solenoid into block. Notice the blue wire from the other side of the solenoid.


Red thick wire from fire wall block and blue wire to module


Red thick wire tied into the red/white one

[rollbar]

OK, further investigation, no power at the red wire junction from the fire wall.

I do have power there (pic below) when I start it but NOT with the ignition key switch in the ON position.

[rollbar]

1. I installed a new NAPA ignition switch = same problem.

2. Tried w/the Accell coil = same problem.

3. Took Accell coil out and used old coil = same problem. I know it works, I got zapped big time, don't ask how, wife was cranking it over, but i told her to.

4. I have two extra modules, hooked them up, cleaned the modules/fender for a good ground, ran a ground from the battery - to the modules = same problem.

5. Disconnected modules and tried to fire engine, would not fire. That is the only way I know how to check them at the moment unless someone knows a better way etc.

6. Wind blowing about 45+mph and the sand is very bad, had to quit for now.

7. Still have test light when cranking BUT NOT when key in in the ON position.

8. I'm thinking of stripping all the wires out of the looms and ....... I still have the wire looms from the I-6 setup and the computer harness is still there/computer plug in etc and all ends in case someone wanted to restore it back to factory.

9. At this point I think it would be best to get rid of all the extra wire (under the hood) but I don't know how to do that and not mess it up worse.

Thanks,
Jim

[rollbar]

OK, I ran a jumper wire from the + side of the battery to the red wire in the pic below and she ran and idled. When I removed the jumper wire, she died.



I guess I'm gonna have to separate the electrical block at the fire wall and see it any connections are not making contact unless someone else has a better idea.

Thank you again,
Jim

[rollbar]

I was told this and it seems to be a worth while try:

In the first picture of the solenoid, disconnect both small red and blue wires turn the ignition switch to the run position test them for voltage the one with voltage connect to the coil plus, then turn the ign to the start position the other wire should have voltage only in the start position if thats the case connect that wire back on the solenoid , than the black wire that is disconnected in your picture connects to the opposite side of the solenoid that should be the ground wire , then you should be good to go.

HERE are my findings:

See next post

.06 volts at coil w/key in the ON position.

W/wires still hooked up to coil = .00

[rollbar]

OK, I had the kids help me and just to be sure here are the readings one more time and double checked:

Wires discoed from solenoid.

ON POSITION at the Solenoid:
1. Red to + on battery = 12.2v

2. Red to - on battery = 0.6v

3. Blue to + on battery = 12.8v

4. Blue to - on battery = 0.00v


START POSITION at Solenoid:
1. Red to + on battery = 10.7v

2. Red to - on battery = 2.0v

3. Blue to + on battery = 0.00v

4. Blue to - on battery = 12.8v