Head Freeze plug Leak V8

[tufcj]

AMC heads are also known to crack right around the corner bolt hole, so it may not be the gasket, it could be the head itself. I've seen it happen most when the head is torqued to spec in a single go around.

Bob
tufcj

[rollbar]

Your just all full of good news Bob :) :)

J/K

Thanks,
Jim

[tufcj]

Hopefully it's just an issue of re-torquing the head bolts. Just wanted you to be aware that it could be a bigger problem. I'd say re-torque first, if it doesn't stop leaking, drop in dose of Bar's-leaks or something similar (Google it and form your own opinion). If that doesn't work, pull the head and have it checked.

Bob
tufcj

[rollbar]

It is supposed to be in the 40*/teens here this week. When its that cold, can I RE-torque, or should I wait until it warms up. ALSO, should I RE-torque 60,90,110?

P.S. I did add some of this and checked, it is no leaking. I did find some h20 in the oil, not much, and changed it yesterday. Just checked and the oil is fine and clear.


Bars w/carbon fiber, ONLY because $$ is tight etc.

I hate to use stuff like this but at this point I had to.

http://www.barsproducts.com/HG1.htm



Someone did post this, check this product out.
http://www.rxauto.com/?gclid=CIDfhK7h16sCFQ0CQAodwiMzSA

[tufcj]

Temp shouldn't affect re-torquing. You're probably past the 90 ft/lb torque value anyway, so just verify 110. The 60-90-110 is just for the 1st time with a new head gasket. I used Bars-leaks in a little 3.8 V-6 Sunbird to avoid changing a head gasket. It would hold for a year or so then leak again. Had the car 3-4 years, then traded it in. Flushed the cooling system once, added bars-leaks a couple of times before the flush, and a couple of times after. Never had problems with it clogging the radiator or heater like some people claim.

Bob
tufcj

[rollbar]

I had Bars blow out my rad so i was afraid to use this but did. So far so go. I think next summer I might re-build the 360, at least peach wants me to.

I drove it around the property today and got on it a little w/the cj8 and wow, the rear came out from under it, more power than I imagined. Felt good, just have to watch myself.

[rollbar]

Hey Bob, just so I don't start another thread.

My oil pressure after this change (I added 16oz of MM-Oil to 10w30 since the motor has been sitting for yrs) is: at idle
60psi cold start
40 warm
20 almost hot
10-12 hot idle sometimes 15 depending on the idle/carb. Now when I put my foot on it some it will go higher and hold there. Hot high idle =40psi estimating 1500 - 1800 rpm.

Is that ok.

Before this oil change it was like 18-20 @ idle, that is w/ 10w30 and no MM-oil.

It does sound better w/the MM-oil since it has been sitting.

One more question, should I go to 10w40 (winter is coming gets single digits here sometimes) to help the pressure? Not sure what to really use. I'm using the extended milage Pennzoil. If and when I rebuild I might use the B~Tear oil, but for now.....

Thanks,
jim

[tufcj]

MM oil is pretty thin, so I don't doubt you're seeing a pressure drop. 10W30 and 10W40 are the same cold, the 10W40 is a little thicker when hot, so you'd see a little improvement in hot pressure, but not a lot. Your pressure isn't bad, certainly nothing to worry about. My CJ idled about 20 hot, a steady 55 running down the highway. Old rule of thumb is 10PSI per 1000 RPM. I'd run it and not worry.

In a multi visc oil like 10W30, the W stands for Winter. It will be no thicker than a straight 10 weight when cold (winter), no thinner than a straight 30 when hot.

Bob
tufcj

[rollbar]

Thanks Bob, the motor has been sitting so I wanted to add some MMOil and it does help.

I don't have it on the road yet, next week :)

I wasn't sure of the 10PSI per 1K like the 258 motor.

Thanks again, I think I'm good w/that.
Jim