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Thread: roller rockers?

  1. #1
    Bulltear forum member New to the forum
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    roller rockers?

    sorry first off for anything that doesnt flow with forums im new to bulltear and forums in general
    i have a 360 out of an 85 grand wagoneer that i am rebuilding i want to install roller rockers on the heads as far as i know i need to have the heads machined for clearance and use push rod guide plates i just dont know how much i need to machine have them machined id also like to use a larger stud can i have the bosses drilled and tapped to use a 3/8 or 7/16 stud right now they are tapped for 5/16. i guess what im really asking is what do i need to do to my 85 amc 360 heads in order to use roller rockers?
    any pictures would be greatly appreciated

    also i dont know if i should start a new thread but this is easier i am interested in installing the valley oil line that so many have my engine wont see high rpm that often but i feel it is a mod that will extend the life of the engine itself and there is no better time to install it then when the whole thing is torn apart and on the engine stand. where exactly do i need to drill and tap holes for this and is it compatible with one piece valley pan gaskets or do i need to use 2 piece intake gaskets?

    thanks much

  2. #2
    Thank you from BT ULTIMUS MAXIMUS STATUS tufcj's Avatar
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    Welcome to Bulltear!

    Generally, the amount that needs to be machined is about .250" + the thickness of your guide plates. So if your guide plates are .125" thick, you'd need to machine .375" from the pedestal. You need to use small block Chevy studs. All of them have 7/16" base studs so the current holes in the heads need to be drilled/tapped to the larger size. You may also need a different length pushrod to get the roller to sit properly on top of the valve. Harland-Sharp makes a no machine set set of rollers. When you figure the cost of the machine work and parts required above, sometimes it's cheaper to go with the no machine rockers.

    Lots and lots of AMC engines ran for 100K+ miles without the oil mod. General consensus is that unless you're spinning it to 6000+ rpm for extended periods (like drag racing), just do the cam bearings with smaller holes and a higher capacity oil pan. (sold here at Bulltear, hit the "store" tab at the top). If you still need pics of the oil mod, I can take some. I have a block that's drilled but currently unassembled in the shop.

    Bob
    tufcj
    Last edited by tufcj; 12-04-2011 at 10:08 AM.
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