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Not sure it may have not let the post process right. You also had some funky pierce and cut heights in your tools as well as a pause at the end of cut and a very slow Z. Should be good to go now.
Any adjustments to the pierce heights, cut heights, and Z were funky due to the issue we were having. We ended the day with very different values than we started with due to the troubleshooting process. I am going to start over with my tools now.
Why are you ref'n the Z axis? Your doing something wrong when your trying to cut a part. My advice is to bring z down to maybe 1" above the part, zero Z, find where you want your X zero and Y zero then run your part. It is quite possible your throwing an extra code in when you hit REF Z before running.
I also cant remember what me and Chris talked about but we got it straitened out. I think it was a tool setting in sheetcam. I cant remember it is a strange issue but we did figure it out and it cut like it was supposed to do.
Its very possible I am. I went over the sequence over the phone with Chris an he said it sounded correct. I cut some parts fine others failed to. I meant zero not REF. If I hold the torch about 1.0 over the material and zero Z, hit run, the torch will travel down and zero itself but will not be actually close enough to the material to pierce it.
Chris told me it was resolved but we never had a sit-down to talk about it. He is going to test it tomorrow an see if it works the way he remembers.
Our machine wasn't performing the G28.1 (auto-touch off feature) portion of the code correctly. It would randomly zero through when at any location through out the travel of the Z to the material.
The floating Z and switch appeared to be in proper working order and everything was set up correctly.
We were advised by Matt and Tom to replace the normally closed switch (stock configuration) with a normally open switch and changed the Z home settings to active high. Once we did this, the problem went away and the G28.1 function is operating properly.
Agreed, I should of mentioned that the problem pointed to a bad switch and not the Active Low/High settings. Chris just changed both, because that is the kind of guy he is.....no patience to try one thing at a time. If I would of made the changes, I would of just changed the switch first, and tried it. Hell, I might even go back to the normally closed switch, just so its in factory form.
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