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hey, new to your site, wish i would have heard about you guys earlier. MSD dizzy gear is gone, and i don't have a filter by-pass(thank GOD?). My question is what are the chances of debris in bearings, (and if not),the best way to clean out. I built the motor back in 2004 trying to use all the good stuff. 401-.060 over, moldex crank .125 stroke(427 c.i.), JE 10.25 pistons, oliver rods, 4-bolt main caps, dbl roller timing, ported indy sr-1 heads, port matched rpm air-gap, crane hyd. roller(.224/.230@.050, .542/.563 lift), 8qt. milodon w/dual p.u., typ. AMC oiling mods, 750 demon w/mech. secondaries, hooker super comps, msd ign., 150hp shot of nos in a 73 jav/amx with about 2500mi. since build( don't drive it alot, just for fun). I think my problem was bad timing cover, crappy cam/dizzy gears. Oil press was 80psi cold, 25psi hot, 60psi cruise. engine dynoed@ 508hp@5500 rpm, 572lb-ft@3900rpm on motor only. Do you guys make a serpentine system that will accomodate a sanden "mini" compressor, pwr. steer., 4-bolt crank? I will be ordering all your good stuff from you to replace what i will need.
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My 73 jav/amx is a factory a/c car, with a sanden #U4663 134a conversion(classic auto air man.co. Kit), GM stye alternator, 4-bolt crank pulley. What do I need to order for your serpentine system to match my set-up? Might as well order along with pump cover, gears, etc..............thanks!
Just a point of reference. I had this same problem in my oval track race engine when I upgraded to a remote coil msd two years ago. I took lots of time to clean everything and changed the oil pump. The Bulltear gears were put back in and everything has worked great at 7200rpm plus. I pulled the motor on Sunday to get ready for the 388 stroker and everything looked great in the motor apart from one main had a small gouge in the bearing with gear debris and the new oil pump gear had a piece out of it. I would guess the oil pump was due to a piece of the old dizzy gear getting in after my clean up since it was in them middle of the gear and they had scratches all over. Like I stated the engine looked great but if you have the time you might want to do a real good flush. Depending on how far you take the motor down and if you find any large chunks with a magnet sweep you might want to pull the pan and clean better. Good luck.
Yea, I think I will drop the pan and check main bearings just in case. Question- I had 4-bolt main caps/studs installed by machine shop 8 years ago, and I'm not sure what they torqued them at when they line honed(machinist has sinced retired) or the order in which they were torqued. I'm thinking 100lb-ft., inner bolts first, not sure. Can I just check with a torque wrench, maybe set at 90lb-ft. And increase setting gradually till I see movement then subtract a few lb-ft. To come up with torque spec? Where there's a will there's a way!
Ok, I pulled the oil pan and cleaned out debris( quite abit stuck in the edges of sump ), checked main bearings and all looks good( glad I cleaned out sump, don't need any more trash going thru new pump ). I got the new cover, pump gears, midplate, dizzy/cam gears and when I mocked up pump gears tight to pump housing and installed dizzy( with new gear ) I have about .048 clearance between dizzy and housing w/o dizzy gasket. I will have approx. .004-.005 clearance at oil pump gears( using .0095 gasket )and dizzy gasket is about .028, so i'm too long about .016( plus .012 for end clearance ), soooooo........ do I grind dizzy shaft taper or end of gear shaft. I'm using an MSD pro billet distributer.
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