4x8 Gantry Build...

[Apocalypse Fabrication]

Sure it would read like G1 Y48. F30.

G1 is feed mode
Y48. is the length you want to cut (in Y axis from where you are..make sure you zero Y where you start)
F30. is feedrate 30 inches per minute (remember the period after 30 or it may default to .03 ipm) and also remember to fire your torch before pressing your enter key

These are entered at the MDI input line and are executed immediately after pressing enter.

This was definitely harder than I thought it would be. Setting the z axis to the right height was challenging; it was dragging the plate. Also... dont switch over to the machine window when cutting... it pauses the cut ><.

I think I may just make a sheetcam file for ripping sheets and just load it when needed.

[Apocalypse Fabrication]

In other news...

We cut our first products for sale. I think we bit off a bit more than we could chew at first, but we worked through it. First item we went to cut on 16 gauge was pretty/very detailed and the x axis found it a perfect time to stall (just like it used to when the bearings were too tight). I checked the gear set screws and they were all tight (this is a check I do every time I operate the machine now). After scrapping the first design cut; I resolved myself to finding out what was causing the x axis to stall.

I found that it would bind/stall even if I jogged the machine at 100% speed. I found that reducing the max velocity from 799.8 to 639.8 it would travel freely and not bind/stall anymore. I have no idea why it's binding/stalling, but I think I can live with the reduction in speed.

I also found, later, that cutting at 250 ipm (book specs on 16 gauge) that I get very finely jagged cuts... you can see the torch shaking as it turns direction at this speed. I think I will just use the 150 ipm cut speed charts from hypertherm, which were made for torchmate machines. Apparently, my machine cant handle the faster speeds either. Yes, I have double checked all the fasteners on the gantry for proper tightness.

I need to install the X and Y home switches so that I can start over on a cut when it invariably effs up. When installing the x axis home switch do I wire the a axis separately or do I link them together?

I was also having a problem with the consumable stuck error. It seems when it tried to pierce next to an existing pierce that it would pick up the little bit of dross from that previous pierce and stick the torch... leading to all sorts of bad things.

[jeepsr4ever]

In other news...

We cut our first products for sale. I think we bit off a bit more than we could chew at first, but we worked through it. First item we went to cut on 16 gauge was pretty/very detailed and the x axis found it a perfect time to stall (just like it used to when the bearings were too tight). I checked the gear set screws and they were all tight (this is a check I do every time I operate the machine now). After scrapping the first design cut; I resolved myself to finding out what was causing the x axis to stall.

I found that it would bind/stall even if I jogged the machine at 100% speed. I found that reducing the max velocity from 799.8 to 639.8 it would travel freely and not bind/stall anymore. I have no idea why it's binding/stalling, but I think I can live with the reduction in speed.

I also found, later, that cutting at 250 ipm (book specs on 16 gauge) that I get very finely jagged cuts... you can see the torch shaking as it turns direction at this speed. I think I will just use the 150 ipm cut speed charts from hypertherm, which were made for torchmate machines. Apparently, my machine cant handle the faster speeds either. Yes, I have double checked all the fasteners on the gantry for proper tightness.

I need to install the X and Y home switches so that I can start over on a cut when it invariably effs up. When installing the x axis home switch do I wire the a axis separately or do I link them together?

I was also having a problem with the consumable stuck error. It seems when it tried to pierce next to an existing pierce that it would pick up the little bit of dross from that previous pierce and stick the torch... leading to all sorts of bad things.

Binding and stalling has alot to do with the amount of force applied to keep the gear into the rack. You can drop your speed and also drop your accel rates to 35 if you need to. If you are getting jagged cuts and the torch is tipping check to see if you have preload on your Y axis truck. You can also check to see if the Mag-Lock plate has play and needs to have the two set screw brought out a little. In gantry kit form your Y axis truck may need to be adjusted out. You dont need home switches it rememebrs where it is when you have an issue. You need to learn how to use the "run from here" in Mach 3. Definately takes some playing with. If you are getting things stuck to your consumables your piercing too low. Also if your torch is dragging your tip volts are too low.

[Apocalypse Fabrication]

Ok, I will check the y axis truck.

I understand how Mach works with the error recovery now.... I watched the Arclight video series, which was super helpful.

When installing the x axis home switch do I wire the a axis separately or do I link them together? This is the method used for squaring the gantry right?

[jeepsr4ever]

You shouldnt need a home switch. Are you trying to install one for squaring the gantry? The better method (which you only have to do once) is to measure from the ends with a tape.

[Apocalypse Fabrication]

I am trying to install the home switches so I can follow this procedure:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...&v=T-LZBHkHPQg

The only question I had about that was the thing about separating the a axis or not, since it's slaved.

I dont like using only a part zero, because what if the sheet shifts or what if I cant get the torch back EXACTLY where I started 0,0?

[jeepsr4ever]

That procedure doesnt allow much of anything if your sheet shifts. What the author doesnt understand is what is the fastest way to get back to exactly where I was when the torch had a problem. What your asking is something that can be done but we do not support or suggest it. If you stop in the middle of the cut and the G code has not completed its path a ref point will not help you. You will need to find the line where the path started, start from there and then turn your torch on just before it gets to that point. Using Ref is how someone would do it when they dont fully grasp the situation of having an error. Your much better off not having those switches used as a REF point. You can do it as you see fit but I will tell you that after a few times of having to use it for ..whatever, you will not use them again. This is coming from several years of cutting with Mach 3.

[Apocalypse Fabrication]

Hey Matt:

Where can I get some more of the nutserts for the gantry? I stripped a few and I want to add a couple spines to reduce flex during cutting.

Thanks

Jason

[jeepsr4ever]

Let me know what you want I will send you a few

[Apocalypse Fabrication]

I was going to order about 24 of them. I dont expect Bulltear to just give them to me. I am the one that obviously stripped them out. If I could get a part# and a supplier; I would be more than happy. I have been browsing the 8020 site and the array of options is making my head spin.


We are getting vibrations during x axis moves when the torch is located in the middle of the y axis gantry. It's giving us jagged cut edges. However, when the torch is near either end of the gantry; it cuts fine. Tomorrow I am going to fasten the table into the concrete slab of the garage in an effort to strengthen it up. If that doesnt work, I want to add some "spines" to strengthen up the y axis, using t nuts to fasten them on.