burning oil!, glazed cylinders?

[fastr@pahrump]

OK, so I have a problem with burning oil in my 401 engine. The motor was rebuilt in 2004 and was modified with .060 over JE 10.25-1 pistons, moldex stroker crank(427 C.I), crower roller cam, bulltear pump cover, pump, dist./cam gears, timing chain(all the good stuff). The motor was dinoed/broken in, before I installed it in my car, and then I went through the process of dialing it in. I had the problem with oil being sucked through pcv valve(fix it with 2 k&n filters @ pcv and oil fill tube), had the problem with pump cover, dist. gear,cam gear crap(not bulltear stuff in the beginning), so its taken me awhile to to get this this thing to finally run great. The engines in a 73 jav/amx and it has about 4000 miles on it and it runs super, BUT, in burns oil. I'm thinking the cylinders are glazed, because when I recently put all the new bulltear stuff in it I dropped the oil pan to clean out shrapnel and the engine seemed to have a lot of blow-by when cranking by hand. So, what would you all suggest?

[jeepsr4ever]

Do you have a PCV and a breather? You need both. If you do its hard to say with all the oil your burned when you were sucking it up.

[fastr@pahrump]

I have a k&n filter on the oil fill tube, and a k&n filter with a 3"extention tube at the pcv grommet in the intake manifold, no pcv valve. Manifold is an edelbrock RPM and even with the baffles installed it sucks oil with stock pcv valve installed.

[tufcj]

Are you using the valley pan or a composite gasket under the manifold? Have the heads been shaved or the block decked? It could cause enough misalignment of the manifold that it can suck oil at the bottom of the intake runners.

You really should have some sort of PCV system in place, the vacuum in the crankcase keeps the seals from leaking, as well as the valve stems.

Bob
tufcj

[fastr@pahrump]

I'm using composite gaskets, intake manifold was port matched to Indy cylinder heads using these gaskets. I'm running an internal oil line, would you run a valley pan and notch out for oil line, or ?, in order too keep pcv from sucking oil

[tufcj]

First would be a dry fit to see that the angle on the intake and heads are the same. I've been able to trim about 1/4" off the ends of the valley pan (just the curl that sits in the valley). With that gone, the pan can be bent into a flat "W" shape to clear the oil mod. I cut the pan on my AMX (first engine I built with the oil mod), it's running a R4B with the baffle and I still have an oil thru PCV problem. I'm going to try pulling the manifold and trying the bent pan soon (I've built several others with the bent pan with no PCV issues).

Bob
tufcj

[fastr@pahrump]

Thanks Bob, that's a good idea, and i'm going to give it a shot. I was thinking the same thing on the intake/head angles but thought how could a machine shop overlook that!.............after all the cash............waiting.............phone calls...........trips...............f*in, mofo,da*,stu*id,somb*cth.............love my hotrod AMC!