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To check if you have an issue with the powermax or an issue with the PWM box (little black box) there is a volt test button on the back of the small black box. It should read 126-127 volts on the Mach 3 screen when pressed.
Then the powermax 45 may not be giving the right voltage. Are you using a drag tip or something strange on the end? Did you check your cut profile and make sure you have the 45 amp setting for your steel?
If your problem persists take the plug out and make sure none of the pins got kicked back so it doesnt loose contact with the tip voltage output of the powermax 45.
1. The Ethernet cable has a short or isn't plugged in all the way or the 1/4 male plug isn't in all the way.
2. You have an incompatible keyboard or mouse. Try making a cut without the keyboard or mouse hooked up only using the hand controller and see what it does.
I'll try those suggestions. I borrowed a friends PM45 and it did the exact same thing. I tested the PWM and it seems to be working properly. I hooked 2 AA batteries to a stereo jack and plugged it in, I had 3.27v going in, and it read 160-161v in Mach, so if I said 160.5v the voltage divider would be 49.08:1 which is pretty close.
It also cuts out randomly during a cut, just for a second, but cutting some aluminum at 380ipm, it leaves a fairly long gap. The torch on light stays on in Mach, but the 'arc ok' light goes out when that happens. I'll keep troubleshooting, it's kinda annoying though.
Hope you don't mind, but I made a couple nameplates for my table, one on each end. Its not really your logo, but its what I came up with.
Looks good! Try running a part without the keyboard and mouse hooked up. Open Mach and load G-code and then unplug the keyboard and mouse. Use the controller to start the program. The logo looks superb! I will let the guys know about that. Also the table looks nice and tall.
Tried what you suggested, no difference, do you think grounding the table would make a difference. I have a steel building, wondering if I tied a ground into one of the footing bolts, they are tied to rebar that goes down into 14' deep concrete pilings.
The table maybe looks taller in the pic, but it is built according to your plans, 37" to the top of the water pan.
I'll see if I can round up another ethernet cable to try.
Do you think I should get rid of the coil of motor wires underneath? you can see in the above pic how I coiled them. Was thinking about shortening them to the proper length.
It doesn't seem like interference because the voltage never gets close to proper, it seems to always be in that 45-90v range.
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